Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im trying to figure out everything that would be required to clean up and do up either a datsun 260z or 240z, trying to work out the budget to make sure i can afford everything before i start playing and everything starts rolling, making sure that the end value will be close to market value so i dont shoot myself in the foot

so this is what ive come up with but i need thoughts on what else is required and the costs of doing things

so im looking at a fairly clean datsun around the 6k mark, requires some good rims 17-18, engine conversion i was looking at advancejapimports.com.au, suspension/braking is where im unsure of, with what is required and what the costs of this would be, cant say im willing to put my faith in a 30 year old suspension system, plus the car def needs to be lowered, body kit isnt really required other than the nose.

so i need ideas of what can be cut back and what needs to be boosted, and where the best place to it done, im in east melbourne

.... thoughts?

car 6,500 wheels 1000 engine $5,000 driveshaft $600 exhaust $500 suspension 1000 body kit $1,000 brakes 500 paint 2500 audio 500 interior 500 rego 550 insurance 400 window tint 500

21,050 or

car 6500 wheels 1000 engine 3000 driveshaft 600 exhaust 500 suspension 1000 body kit 500 brakes

paint

audio 500 interior 500 rego 550 insurance 400 window tint

15050

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290203-datsun-260z-or-240z/
Share on other sites

more on suspension and less on audio man. my stereo is clean as and i only spent $600 on it.

i gotta tell ya though. ultimately the budget structure will depend on the car that you buy in the first place. to compensate for what it is lacking ect.

also have to tell ya. fk i wish i had 20k to spend on my datto!

Buying a car of that age could be hazardous to your wallet.

You might be needing to spend more money on panel (rust) and paint.

Why convert the engine anyway? Stick with an L series motor so it stays more of a collectible.

As an example I would suggest something like this instead.(but there are other ones)

http://www.uniquecarsales.com.au/pls/carsa...mp;photo_flag=1

Depending on condition you couldn't build it for this sort of money and I assume cars like this are negotiable pricewise.

Ever heard an L28 with triples on it ?....ahhhh awesome sound (you wouldn't need audio ;) )

Budgeting for resto's or customs never works out.

Think of a figure then double it. If you are passionate about the work do it. If not buy someone elses project or finished car and tweak it into your own. The only cars I've done well from are Rods all the other cars i've built were for love/pleasure. No budget, no profits, just fun.

Edited by madbung

you would need an engineers certificate too, like the other guys have said, if you are building an old car, dont expect to hold it to a budget....

i budgeted 6k for my car. ended up around 11k..and its still not finished.

Edited by skybt1

Yep! Ditto on all counts.

When I built my MX83 1UZ fe V8 I thought about 6 grand would have done it, but when it was finished ...... brakes, suspension, bits of rust & paint, correct wiring for everything to work, then radiators & fans for cooling etc etc etc and when I added it all together it was looking more like 11 or 12 grand.

Then it's an ongoing maitenance deal, because it's a conversion.

Cheers, D

When i was about 16 my dream Z was in Street Machine, thing was mint and ran a V8....18 years later one is for sale and i am so tempted to buy it. But having owned a 65 Chev i would only ever buy a restored car....panel beaters make fixing up old cars far too risky as they are mega expensive for fixing issues you didnt spot at purchase time

Ive always wanted a 240z...

But I cant really see myself spending all that money on one. :)

Was pretty damn sure when I was out in the country about a year ago now, I saw a shell from a 240 - 260 or 280z sitting in a paddock somewhere. If I wasnt with my boss I would of jumped the barbwire fence and had a looksie. ;)

FWIW my '73 240Z owes me north of $65k...

Unless you buy one already 'done', expect to spend about $10k on bodywork, $3k on suspension (at least), $2k on brakes, $3k on LSD/CV conversion, $5k on interior parts (at least), $3k on exterior trim, $2k on wheels, $3k on engine (for a mickey-mouse L28 with quality parts). $1k on body electrics (to bring everything up to modern standards), $1k on a reconditioned FS5W17B gearbox (or more if you want an FS5C71B or option-box).

Oh, and there's also the purchase price :D

When i was about 16 my dream Z was in Street Machine, thing was mint and ran a V8....18 years later one is for sale and i am so tempted to buy it. But having owned a 65 Chev i would only ever buy a restored car....panel beaters make fixing up old cars far too risky as they are mega expensive for fixing issues you didnt spot at purchase time

Was it a red one that had a Chev V8. Was on the front cover with a yellow Vette.

This Magazine : http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=350234561439

If so your Dream Z is for sale. Same car that was in Street Machine all those years ago. The guy that owned and built it sold it to George some years back, and now George is selling it.

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,5520.0.html

and on ebay here

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=250498492588

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...