Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

needs modification? or straight fit? with all the navi working fine?

will i be able to get maps put on this unit? or same story again with no car in australia with the australian maps that will load on this unit?

NO modifications needed, a few little mis fits, but otherwise OK

Make sue you get a full unit with a face cover from US!

The CD Changer slot is located slightly lower, along with buttons

Navi is working, everything runs, BUT I HAVE NO MAPS

same question..

i thought US goes by Miles not km's?

did you converit it over?

There's a choice in the menu to change from Miles to L/kms, which is great! :whistling:

My stagea was doing 8 l/100 on the highway for 100 kms! :D

that is friggen awesome!! very VERY nice work!!!

are you going to put up an FYI on how to do this? or perhaps sell your services to perform these conversions??

Its all quite simple to do yourself, just have to find removal guides for stereo and DVD unit, and follow the same to put it back in.

NO modifications needed, a few little mis fits, but otherwise OK

Make sue you get a full unit with a face cover from US!

The CD Changer slot is located slightly lower, along with buttons

Navi is working, everything runs, BUT I HAVE NO MAPS

that makes your radio and PN2615 out of a 2004 model. they changes the mechs in them to avoid the issues with the 2001-2003 cars. the only realy way to sort it is to gt teh correct main panel.

I got caught on this a while back.

if we can get navi disc for this it'll be awsome

Also does it have DVD player now?

wat does the D/N button do now?

NO DVD player, NO TV unfortunately.......but like anyone is going to use it

D/N is day/night lighting

NO DVD player, NO TV unfortunately.......but like anyone is going to use it

D/N is day/night lighting

can't please every one eh?

this is the english work around you have been presented with and you still complain :)

if you guys with the NAVI versions want english buy the box and the buttons. that will sort it for you.

want it all to work buy the whole lot and swap it all out.

give the guy credit - he's taken the initiative to fix what he sees as a problem.

Quick questions for your Chris.

Would this setup work in an M35 RS?

I only ask as I have the single DIN Clarion unit with 3 gauge setup as opposed to the integrated unit.

Would everything hook up or would some re-wiring/splicing be in order?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...