Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtst Lots Of Goodies, Drift Ready, Street Legal..


Recommended Posts

Hey All,

The time has come, I have to let her go, my growing family requires the money.

The 32 has been a project toy for over 2 years, and I dont want to let her go, But I dont have much choice. I have taken it drifting at QR a few times, and a few times at archy, great car, slide really well considering it doesnt have huge horsepower.

The car has 128,000kms on it, I have only done about 6000 ( yes Six thousands). Since I have had it, I have done the following work to it.

Fresh RB20 went in 10 weeks ago, with new belts, pulleys, gaskets, Cleaned injectors, fuel filter, oil filter, Oils

5 speed manual

17 inch Nismo/ Rays LM GT2 rims, 215/45/17 front, 235/45/17 rears tires are wearing

Tein HA height adjustable coilovers, Rears rebuilt 18 months ago, new seals and thread sleeves,

1.5 way mechanical Diff, locks beautifully,

brand new Heavy Duty clutch plate,

HICAS lock bar, with lines plumbed back to pump,

GTR alloy bonnet and grill

GTR Fibre Glass front bar, skirts and rear spats,

Apexi Pod filter, with custom air box, with Cold air ducting from front bar,

600x300 Intercooler in front bar, cold pipe heat wrapped to stop heat soak,

I have been told its a 33 turbo, but I dont know for sure!

TurboTech boost controller running 13PSI,

60x30mm Serck Oil cooler, with all SPEEDFLOW hoses and fittings, HKS oil cap

Remote oil filter, Speedflow hoses and fittings,

58mm Alloy Radiator, with 12 Inch Thermo Fan, SSR radiator cap

3 Inch Dump back Exhaust, nice and quiet ( never had decibel reading),

Rebuilt Alternator,

Turbosmart Fuel Pressure gauge,

Alloy rear cradle bushes (pineapples),

GTR rear sway bar with Nolathane bushes,

Front Strut Brace,

ABS brakes ( rare on 32 GTsT's,

Fuel Pump hard wired for 14 volts, increased pressure and reduced pressure drop off,

Brand new Century battery last week,

Fresh coil packs, all tested and in great condition,

GTR seats,

Water + Oil temp, Oil Pressure, Boost, and voltage gauges,

Personal Euro Steering wheel,

Brand new windscreen 6 months ago,

Alloy Gear knob,

JVC CD head unit, fusion 6x9s 5 inch fronts

Two Loud Air Horns,

Currently rego'd, with personalised plate, sell with out plates,

May not pass roady due to the diff, so road worthy will be at buyer expense.

Did have leaking ABS unit, so paint on chassis rails below unit has peeled away, had new unit installed a while ago, but I think this one is leaking too ( $200 for a new one),

Selling due to young family, and needing the money.

would like $12,000 for the car, all reasonable offers considered, please no swaps as I need the money not another toy, sorry

Please PM or email to [email protected]

I am located In Ormeau, which is just South Of Yatala ( South of brisbane, north of Gold Coast) In Qld

31082009424.jpg

31082009425.jpg

31082009426.jpg

31082009420.jpg

31082009428.jpg

31082009422.jpg

  • 4 months later...
  • 1 month later...


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...