Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got 2 gearbox's that crunch into 4th gear. There is a syncro clip that comes out when you shift into 4th too quick.

does anyone know the part number for this or know where I can buy some? i need about 5 of them.

cheers

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

no its a syncro clip that brakes and falls into the oil. when you change the oil you can see it on the magnet.

this is a known issue with 25 box's. so where can i get the parts to replace mine?

p/n fast comes up with is, 32609-70L70. there is 3 of them.

i was having the same plobem with 3rd and 4th crunching, My 3rd syncro ring was worn and my 4th was cracked.

I got 2 gearbox's that crunch into 4th gear. There is a syncro clip that comes out when you shift into 4th too quick.

does anyone know the part number for this or know where I can buy some? i need about 5 of them.

cheers

p/n fast comes up with is, 32609-70L70. there is 3 of them.

i was having the same plobem with 3rd and 4th crunching, My 3rd syncro ring was worn and my 4th was cracked.

do you have a picture of these clips? what do they look like ?

what came out of my gearbox does not look like a ring

thanks for your help man, but thiis looks different to what came out of my gearbox.

here are the pics

post-1240-1254908068_thumb.jpgpost-1240-1254908107_thumb.jpg post-1240-1254908170_thumb.jpg

in one of my other box's that this happened to only the small clip part came off and it crunch's into 4th gear. it does not crunch every time. about 60% of the time.

any ideas?

just went and took a pic.
Guilt - those clips look the same as in my R32 gtr box that i have the bell housing off at the moment.

what are they ? whats the part number? what do they do? how do you replace them?

they are on the 4th gear syncro, i dont know what they do but i can ask someone who will know. Only reason i know is i was having issue selecting 4th when i took my housing off and was looking at them when I was trying to figure out what was wrong.

Can't find them in fast, but I think there is 3 of them. I think they are on the 5th gear synchro hub. i will look at mine tomorrow.

The only things on the 3rd and 4th synchro hub are the 3 shift inserts, and 2 insert springs.

thanks for your help man, but thiis looks different to what came out of my gearbox.

here are the pics

post-1240-1254908068_thumb.jpgpost-1240-1254908107_thumb.jpg post-1240-1254908170_thumb.jpg

in one of my other box's that this happened to only the small clip part came off and it crunch's into 4th gear. it does not crunch every time. about 60% of the time.

any ideas?

they are on the 4th gear syncro, i dont know what they do but i can ask someone who will know. Only reason i know is i was having issue selecting 4th when i took my housing off and was looking at them when I was trying to figure out what was wrong.

Yeah they are the reason why this is happening. they hold the syncro in place or something? I am not sure. But i know there is one guy in sydney who knows the issue and he repaires them for $250. but i am in Eastern europe now i cant exactly chuck 2 box's in the back of my car and cruise down to him.. i mean the skyline can fly but not that far :dry:

Can't find them in fast, but I think there is 3 of them. I think they are on the 5th gear synchro hub. i will look at mine tomorrow.

The only things on the 3rd and 4th synchro hub are the 3 shift inserts, and 2 insert springs.

That would be good. please help. I have 3 gearbox's here that need this repair done on them and we cannot exactly take it to a local guy to find the issue and parts and sort it out. we can take him the box with the parts we need installed but thats about it.

my 33 gtr box crunches 4th too, every other gear is very smooth tho, i wish wat u are suggesting here is true coz id do it straight away! just need to know how to do it lol

Yes its true, its from shifting from 3rd to 4th gear too fast. it has happened to a few of my box's and a few others that i know of.

We need to get to the bottom of this!!!

Yes its true, its from shifting from 3rd to 4th gear too fast. it has happened to a few of my box's and a few others that i know of

that happens to me as well GT, i always thought it was either shi*t gb oil or worn synchro.

i will keep an eye on this thread incase you find the answer cause it worries me that my gb might blow 4th gear lol.

that happens to me as well GT, i always thought it was either shi*t gb oil or worn synchro.

i will keep an eye on this thread incase you find the answer cause it worries me that my gb might blow 4th gear lol.

nah the box won't break the gear. eventually you will wear out the syncro and it will get worse so that means if you fix the clip issue it will still crunch because the syncro will be worn out.

We need answers! someone help us with the info we need. I am sure this is a quick and easy fix and once we get part numbers I will get pics and give all the info i can when i repair the box's here.

Here is a message i got from PJ a while back about fixing this issue.

I removed his number from the PM, I am sure he wont appreciate his number being put on a public forum.

I did talk to George and he is able to fix the box's for around $300 i believe. If someone is keen to get there's done and need his number then please send me a PM, maybe if you go to him with a box that needs the repair and ask him for the details and part number to get the parts to do the job he may help us out?

Sadly I am not in a situation on the other side of the globe to do that.

anyone keen?

------

Give George from Advanced Motor Mechanics in Enfield a call 0402 *** ****

They do all the mechanical work on my beast.

If your 4th gear syncro is hammered, replacing the clips won't stop the crunching though...

Cheers

Paul

------

I had a look at mine today, those clips that you put a pic up of, are only on my 5th gear synchro hub. My 1st -2nd and 3rd-4th synchro hubs only have the shift inserts. (the ones in the pic I put up )

my gearbox is a 5/98 model which is a bit different than the early models and maybe this is one of the different things.

Edited by woolls

is it possible that those clips hold all the syncro's together and causes the 4th gear crunching?

I had a look at mine today, those clips that you put a pic up of, are only on my 5th gear synchro hub. My 1st -2nd and 3rd-4th synchro hubs only have the shift inserts. (the ones in the pic I put up )

my gearbox is a 5/98 model which is a bit different than the early models and maybe this is one of the different things.

those clips are from the sliding hub that selects gears. 3rd and 4th are f**ked. box has to come out, remove the bell housing, remove the input shaft from the mainshaft and you will find that the sliding hub outside part will just fall off

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...