Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Fixed my gearbox. as suspected the clips were in the oil.

We did not have to remove any of the gears, we were able to put the clips into the box without removing the hub! box is changing well now.

Also if you keep driving the box like this you will wear out the selector fork that moves the gears, i had to change to the spare one because this one was flogged out so if you have this problem you should fix it ASAP.

very possible. also this crunch sounds different to a propper syncro crunch. a proper syncro crunch is very excessive and harsh where this is more of a notchy mini crunch as the gears are being selected.

i have and there wer no clips, but thats not to say the last owner found the clips before hand...
very possible. also this crunch sounds different to a propper syncro crunch. a proper syncro crunch is very excessive and harsh where this is more of a notchy mini crunch as the gears are being selected.

hmm, well mine is very extended, not just a quick tap tap of the gears hitting inside the box, its more of a bzzzzzzzzzt on the rare occasion of shifting into 4th, usualy when giving it a bit more gas, i drove to work today with no crunches, and the box felt good, but sometimes theres a quick bzzzzzzzzt when shifting to 4th on the rare occasion.

  • 10 months later...

i have only ever played with twin countershaft g/boxs was just about to attempt my syncros on my rb25 box.

just wondering if the timeing is still the same with the mark on the front counterahft drive gear (5th) and how or if the countershaft is shimmed up?

i havent looked at a manual or anything on light commertial g/boxes

  • 3 months later...

i have found one of these clips in my oil recently after my gearbox got stuck in 4th. Had to pull box out as it refused to come out of gear. once we got it on the ground out of the car it slipped out of gear and has been fine since we put it back in the car. I never use 4th tho as its a drift car and only see's 2nd and 3rd.

Reason it got stuck in 4th was i was loading it onto trailer and the shifter felt weird and stiff, i just pulled it into gear to see what was going on and it got stuck there.

Should i put this fix on the urgent list?

  • 3 years later...

Hey all, digging up this thread as I'm now having this problem after tracking the car.

Fixed my gearbox. as suspected the clips were in the oil.

We did not have to remove any of the gears, we were able to put the clips into the box without removing the hub! box is changing well now.

Also if you keep driving the box like this you will wear out the selector fork that moves the gears, i had to change to the spare one because this one was flogged out so if you have this problem you should fix it ASAP.

Can you post some pictures how you did this without changing the hub mate?

And is 36209-70L20 the right part number for these? And should I order 3 from nissan?

Cheers

Amir

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

Hi do you have any tip on how to remove the 5th gear bushing? In the service manual its a pic of som sort of cylinder tool with 3 bolts to use along with a puller. That special bushing tool seems to be very rare

I made a plate up that sits under the centre plate, and a jig that presses on both mainshaft and cluster. I made a tool to pull the bush off but its a shrink fit and is really tight. The press works heaps better

Okej will try make some special jig like that. Or do you even need to remove the bush to be able to change all sync rings? Looking at the pictures on this thread it looks like he just knocked the main shaft out of the center plate without removing the Bush on the sub shaft

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
    • Hi, Will the R33 GTR rear brake backing plates fit a GTST? I'm struggling to find GTST ones but can find new GTR ones.   Thanks.
    • I also got the same floor mats for a bit of extra bazzaz haha
    • Some more close up pics now that I’m back to working on the car, the loop pile is nice but again haven’t compared it to the other types in person, it’s hard to tell from the pics on the website. View of the hemming on the edges too, it comes in 2 pieces - front and back, honestly very happy with it for anyone on the fence.  Also attached my previous pics from further up as it didn’t let me post them directly before. (Nothing worse than photo bucket pics that aren’t hosted anymore years later)
×
×
  • Create New...