Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I am new to this forum as I have just bought a skyline after being a rotor boy for the past 5 years.

I have purchased a r34 gtt manual jap import. It seems to make a noise when the car starts up... but then stops after about 5 seconds.

The noise sounds like the hood is open and the metal stand is making the noise... if that makes sense.??

I have seen that ppl are using wd40 and replacing the belts etc... would this just be a belt related problem??

cheers,

Nick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290919-squeaky-noise-in-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

What kind of noise is it?

Is it a squeal?

Is it a clatter?

Does it not happen when the car has been warmed up?

Without knowing more info, it might just be a belt. In that case, you can spray just a little WD40 on one belt and see if it stops. Stop the engine > start it again > see if it's silent. The WD40 is just a temp measure > check and replace the belt if necessary (if it's cracked, frayed or not sitting flush in it's pulleys.

If it's a clatter, you can get a 30cm wooden dowel and put one end on parts of the engine (with the other at your ear). Valve lifters?

Congrats on your purchase. How long ago did you take ownership? Was it a dealership? If it was & it's recent, could they look at it for you?

Hey its a squeel... and it only come on when i start the engine for 3 secons or so...

I believe it is a belt related problem.. mayb loose or old? but im worried because it goes away and doesnt come back until i start it again..

(I guess thats a good thing :mrt: lol...)

Generally only happens when car engine is alwready warm... ??

Hey.. nah its not an armarold problem cos he didnt shine it up or anything...

One of the belts seems loose.. possibly the timing belt? the top one of the r34 ... ?

A mate of mine said it could be a water pump bearing... ? any help guys.. it only stays on for a small time then goes until i start again..

seems like when i start it up the volt meter Fluctuates with the noise then stays stable... could this imply that the alternator belt could be loose??

help plz. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...