Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just answered your question in your other thread about std 33 coils. besides there have been many threads on this topic before. just use the search function..its your friend :P

infromation is there in the search functions, read it all, its stupidlly conflicting, several people say s2 has built in igniter and several people say s1 has built in igniter, no definitive answer, without looking from memory s2 has built in igniter, I think the r34 has built in aswell,

can anyone confirm diff between 33 s1 and s2 and r34, can u see the built in igniter,

infromation is there in the search functions, read it all, its stupidlly conflicting, several people say s2 has built in igniter and several people say s1 has built in igniter, no definitive answer, without looking from memory s2 has built in igniter, I think the r34 has built in aswell,

can anyone confirm diff between 33 s1 and s2 and r34, can u see the built in igniter,

what? clearly series 1's and 1.5's have one main ignition module. this goes for all earlier models on skyline e.g r32 rb26's.

from series 2, the igniters were built in. i dont think theres any series 1's with built in igniters.Im pretty sure there are none,unless theyre modified in some way?

actually series 1.5 generally have the s2 engines so will have the ignitor built into the coils. at least that is my experience with the s1.5 i had and all the other ones i have seen.

but it is extremely easy to tell whether the car has an external ignitor or not. look for a square unit at the back of the engine bay on the rocker cover with a plug on each side. if it has it then it takes s1 coils. if it has a plug but no box it takes s2 coils.

Yes my 1.5 (1995) has the series 2 running gear. To my knowledge all of them do, and I'm guessing only the earliest of them...if any...will have series 1 running gear.

As mad said, check towards the back of the spark plug cover...if there's a black box on there then you have series 1, if there's no black box there then you have series 2. Simple. Search the forum for pictures of said ignitor.

strange cause my missus has series 2 coils on her 94 line but i have series 1 coils on my 94.

hers has the mounting point for the main igniter but instead its just the plugs joined with no igniter. know what i mean? lol.

so is there any way of just plug and play with the diff coils?

Edited by SLY-25T
strange cause my missus has series 2 coils on her 94 line but i have series 1 coils on my 94.

hers has the mounting point for the main igniter but instead its just the plugs joined with no igniter. know what i mean? lol.

so is there any way of just plug and play with the diff coils?

there are possible reasons for a 94 model having s2 coils. it may have had an engine transplant, it may be a very late model 94 and just got the s2 engine, etc.

you may possibly be able to install s2 coils onto a s1 if you swap the whole ignition loom. not sure if the plugs at the back (where the ignitor usually is) are the same though

everyone says to search pics of series 1 and 2 coilpacks lol but i cant find none i need to know which one my car has in it lol all i know the car has ecr r33 on the compliance plate what does that mean? lol i dont say what month it was made in either lol any ideas/help?

not the best of pics but the coilpack cover (where it says 2500 NISSAN on top of motor) has a lil box on the back. in the pic its just above the BOV. If you zoom in its got a plug either side.

That one is the series 1 coilpack with an external ignitor.

Series 2 doesnt have this box as each coil has a built in ignitor.

post-53838-1254907064_thumb.jpg

Edited by SLY-25T
not the best of pics but the coilpack cover (where it says 2500 NISSAN on top of motor) has a lil box on the back. in the pic its just above the BOV. If you zoom in its got a plug either side.

That one is the series 1 coilpack with an external ignitor.

Series 2 doesnt have this box as each coil has a built in ignitor.

post-53838-1254907064_thumb.jpg

ok deff no little black box there hmm soo what does this mean? series 2 motor?

yer the coil pack are different 100 %! i changed mine yesterday

Look at the top of the motor and see if you got that little black box there. can i ask why are you changing them- miss fire?

make sure that you are sure its a coil pack before u spend too much cash on the wrong thing :P

let me know if you need a hand with it, cause i just went through it all and i'm not sure if it might be the leads too, but it has stopped missing.

There are quick diy fixes to the coils, refer to the sticky. Probably do that first, to make sure that its the actual coil

the colour of the sticker on the AFM

Are S2 AFM's pink label? Coz i got a 93 S1 and i got a pink label afm. does that make a difference to the readings, performance etc.?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...