Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

cant see it at work, but im assuming its the group that says something like there are too many skylines and wrx in adelaide.

but then the people go on about how great commos are inside it :) think there's a s load more of those in adelaide

Sigh

Split the coolant hose underneath the inlet manifold this morning. Lost 80% of my coolant, managed to get it to the mechanics in time. Pissed the last litre of coolant out while it was on the hoist. They had to remove the starter motor to get to it. 2x hoses replaced. Thank f**k its not the heater core hoses. And I'd only put new coolant in 3 months ago, genuine nissan too...

-D

before or after mullers rd Ben?

before - only noticed it when i got to work, went inside to get some stuff and came out to see a massive puddle of ethylene glycol baking in the sun - looked at the radiator, had enuff to proceed but had the bottle of distilled water just in case

-D

EDIT - And main north nissan are all out of that particular hose. Dunno if I find one in silicon from anyone in adelaide before Friday either (it'll take till friday for nissan to get the hose from Melb...)

RB24...that is all :)
I don't know how much it would cost...but 2-2.5k should do it, ill scan a article out of HPI #44, where they start building a RB24, and send it too you.

and the rest abe, i reckon 2k would cover the machining

last time i checked the tomei RB24 kit was 6k :)

Yeah no shit hey. Trying to find out about catch can setups/ oil mods for some piece of mind and just when I get some useful info someone two posts down trashes it.

All I want is a lightly tuned reliable GTR.

  • Oil mods like which catch can, relocator and oil cooler
  • Front pipes (No I'm not going to AM Performance
  • Pods or panel filters
  • clutch, ebc, injectors, cams, fuel pumps.

Too many options, too many chances of buying a brand thats not going to work well.

1) those oil mods wont solve the GTR's problems, they help you at the track and changing filter, but as far as stopping them from spinning a bearing, you really need the sump off!! you can actually do the sump mods with the engine in the car, there actually is a way to take the sump off with the engine still in place! and you want to enlarge and baffel it! the other important mod is the restrictor in the head...not that easy to do, you may be able to do it from the bottom with the sump off tho, but expect to pay $$ for this

2) umm.. okay, why? u know whats on there atm? any particular reason you have singled out this part of the exhaust?

3) pods with shroud or box... once again, for a stockish car why would you want to change them?

4)

a) you having problems with the clutch at the moment? untill it start failing why change?

b) anything with a mac valve, they are the best type of electronic presure control!! (profec b spec 1 has it)

c) perhaps were starting to move away from a lightly tuned gtr?? stock turbos? its going to depend on your current plans, remember if were talking stock ecu there is only so big you can go

d) from the fourms "The answer on duration depends on what RPM range you are targetting, be realistic.

If you intend to use 7,000 to 9,500 rpm, something around 272 to 288 degrees would be the go.

For 5,500 to 8,000 rpm, around 260 to 272 and for 4,500 to 7,500 rpm then 248 to 260 is the go.

That's a simplification, but you get the idea. As for lift, once I know the effective rpm range,

I then choose the highest lift I can for that duration. What valve springs you are using will also determine the maximum lift" just note that once you get over 10.25mm lift you need new buckets as well as springs, you may also start to get clearance issues if you go much higher lift. but once again i ask why??

e) obv if your doing injectors u'd do this

perhaps its better for you to list your goals and we can go from there, but there is ALOT you do need to consider (as your finding out) and alot of the time you do one upgrade and you look at thing having to do 3 more for it!

i can see what your thinking... get the car up to a good base to work from there, but it depends on your 'current' end goals, you might not need to do some of this, and you might want to look at other things instead

1 x Hell Yeah
about time that R was out again luke....cant wait to see you at a villis meet with the R mate

cheers guys... but MORE delays!! =\

who quits work the week before they start on my car XD

What sized tire should I run on the GTR for a 9.5" rim? I was thinking maybe a 245/35 KU36 all round

I run 245's on a 8.5 rim at the track, If i was you i'd be going 255's minimum. No need to stretch your tyres on a 9.5inch rim on a GTR.\

I'm pretty sure Sled had 255's on his 9.5's on his GTR.

Edited by DSTROY
+1 GTR's should have no stretched tryes. Flush but no stretch :)

Unless their 10inch+ I think Shane has stretched 255's on RBWARE, looks f#cking porn!

dsc_0113_resized.jpg

Edited by DSTROY
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
×
×
  • Create New...