Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i dont want to join them i hate heavy metal its just screaming in to a mic locky could do that

and i feel like rat shit with my cocktail of hayfever and cold lol i just want to watch gran torino and be on sau lol

NPC gave me a rather nice looking quote - 10inch heavy duty copper mix organic - $643.50 inc gst for the kit. $450 inc gst for a revsolution flywheel...Thoughts?

you know my thoughts.......what's the diameter of a factory plate?

I installed a Extreme cushioned button on a mates car not long ago, drives like standard, holds 350 + rwkw, took out a exedy cushioned button that melted! and was bloody heavy under foot too.

Extreme have got there skylines kits well sorted these days, would recommend no problem at all.

My Extreme cushioned button didn't end up to well, but it did have a hard life from me.

clutch2.jpg

now i have this one, but i don't recommend it for to much street driving.

newclutch1.jpg

you know my thoughts.......what's the diameter of a factory plate?

A Nismo Tiwnplate Coppermix, i don't have ~$2k to throw at a clutch, and if my parents found out i spent that much they would freak....they will most likely freak anyway, they hate the car and the amount of money i spend on it. I also cant wait 28days for it to arrive from Japan via Nengun. As for the factory plate size, no idea, but i would say 9.5-10".

Chad, Didn't you have that made up by NPC?

A Nismo Tiwnplate Coppermix, i don't have ~$2k to throw at a clutch, and if my parents found out i spent that much they would freak....they will most likely freak anyway, they hate the car and the amount of money i spend on it. I also cant wait 28days for it to arrive from Japan via Nengun. As for the factory plate size, no idea, but i would say 9.5-10".

Ever thought of getting a second hand twin plate from a wreckers? Ive seen a fair few coppermix clutches for sale at certain import wreckers yesterday. Providing they have plenty of meat left on them, they could be a cheaper option.

My 2c + Gst

I run an OS triple plate in my car - with a Nismo oversized slave cylinder it is really kind on the pedal feel, only slightly heavier than stock. My OS twin plate prior to this one was like driving a standard clutch albeit with a slightly harsher friction point. Driving in traffic with either of these clutches was fine, and they also hold after repeated 8500rpm+ launches :)

Alot of incorrect info flying around in here.

The whole idea of going for a twin plate is to avoid a heavy pedal....which is what a single with a thicker diaphram will give you.

I'm not even a fan of the singles with solid centres that are running buttons because they are very unforgiving on you and your driveline......these don't affect pedal pressure though.

Triple plate is a total waste of time for your car Abe.....not to mention that you will always be trying to release 3 plates before you can change years...not very good for lightening shifts.

Nismo have probably done more testing on GTR's than anyone else in the clutch department and have come up with 2 versions of the Twin Copper Mix one has a slightly heavier diaphram than the other, hence slightly heavier pedal but more clamping pressure.

I ran the lightest of the 2 Twin Copper Mix kits and found the pedal to be lighter than the factory single because they rely on surface area (being twice as much) and not clamping pressure which gives the heavy pedal. The use of organic material is for forgiveness on your driveline (ability to slip it in traffic) but with a mix of copper to increase grip and reduce fade on the track.

IMHO, either of the 2 Nismo twin setups give you flexibilty between street and track which would suit your specific requirements Abe.

Having said that, a car that's used mainly for track like Andrew's (Blue 32) would not benefit from this set up as he would want very little slip and lightening changes.....plus he doesn't idle in traffic so clamping pressue is not a problem in this instance.

Correct Pete! I had an os giken twin plate in mine (changed from an extreme 750kg pressure plate with organic clutch plate) and it was lighter and more driveable...Driven a nismo twin plate in a 33 gtst as well and it was much much better then his puck clutch he had in it before! I'd always go twin plate if i had my choice (and budget allows)

NPC make a great clutch abe i've run 2 group buys with Doug he is awesome to deal with

you can read a little info >>here<< and also see a few pictures

Thanks Steve, I am really considering a Jim Berry or a NPC clutch or if i really have too an Xtreme - As it is cheaper, and i have been hearing mixed responses about them.

Fitted my fmic intercooler piping kit. What a pain in the arse that was. :) Couldn't be arsed trimming the radiator fan, so I've removed it altogether for the moment. Does anyone recommend an electric fan kit?

I'll need to fit one before the track day.

:)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...