Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Phew - washing, chamoising, scratch repairing/cutting, polishing, waxing then trim detailing your car is absolutely exhausting in this (even mild) heat. Going to wait until it is a bit cooler to do the inside cleaning/vacuuming then she is ready for a final exterior wet coat Saturday 6am.

Mind you, the 35 is now looking a million bucks :D

I'm gona spend all Friday night giving my car some lurve getting it ready for saturday.

in fact what polish/scratch treatment do you use for the black duco Andrew? Is it a light compound treatment? I don't want anything 'too' heavy duty that is going to removed a few layers lol

Edited by Weezy
f**k that

i intend on fighting these cockmongers

no retreat, no surrender

-D

Dunno if you saw the news tonight but Rannwit has made a backflip and is now willing to talk about this motorsport complex, he just doesn't want it at Gilman he wants it somewhere else

Is that right hand side standing at front of car or right hand side of radiator?

So they bolt into R31 as well??

I need bigger radiator, now with the FMIC installed the water temps have gone from under the 1/4 mark on the gauge to over half way...

lhs standing from front of car (drivers side) /rhs looking at it from the rear of the radiator

snap, beaten to it. sorry bout that shane, shoulda clarified it. I know you can do a 33 rad into a 31, just modifying the way the top mounts are (33 are horizontal, 31 are vertical, literally bend them 90 degrees and snap it fits)

on another small note, i can go buy my winch tomorrow w00t

who can say no more push recoveries for non-running cars?

Dunno if you saw the news tonight but Rannwit has made a backflip and is now willing to talk about this motorsport complex, he just doesn't want it at Gilman he wants it somewhere else

Yeah ... prob Murray Bridge!

At this point in time, I don't care. I'll travel to Murray Bridge if I have to for a decent motorsport venue. As long as they can cater for competitors, spectators, volunteers and all vehicles with all the proper infrastructure and services, then I'd travel to use it than a run down, derelict venue.

I can imagine many people will complain if its a fair trek to get to it ... but most of them wouldn't use it anyway. They'll find other excuses to hoon about on the public roads. You could stick the venue right in their neighbourhood, and they still won't use it.

If its modern and has decent infrastructure, the serious people will travel for it. Hell, I'm bored with Mallala right about now. My next track day is at Eastern Creek, then Phillip Island not long after. I'll gladly travel for a decent venue.

A mate of mine whose just come back from darwin, says the track days they have up there..kinda like our saturday night drift pracs, cost something like $70, and you go for a blat all day.

If they can do something like this..then yeah, im down...lend me a car someone? :P

damn took so much time in cleaning the wheels but they look at least respectable now.....car is cleaned and looks decent enough for the show.....thanks once again for Matty the towbitch for towing my car again.....cant wait to get back and enjoy a beer with ya mate

now i am so f**king exhausted....time to go and watch some ufc later on

okay........ i've been f**k assing around all week organising tyres on the ninja for the meisters. I assumed 245/40 stretched on a 10" wide rim would be suitable enough to be able to get my car in and out of my driveway without the front guards bring rolled, but NO! Fail... Can't get back up my driveway. 1. I wna slap the cvnt that designed our house 2. I wna slap my car for giving me the sh!ts and no 3. lol

Okay, so now I need to get my front guards rolled, I'll get onto wheelworx about that later unfortunatly its going to be boring-spec stockies for the car show this saturday :( I don't even wna enter now thats how over it I am.

end. f**king. rant. ffs. aids.

Cheers anyway man.

Now I have to wait untill the guard gets changed because when the lady reversed into me, the guard was replaced and the indicator hole wasn't lined up properly *not on the painters side* but they didn't check to see if holes were the same they had just assumed they were being a compliance thing, as you would I spose? And now they're going to replace it again and get the indicator holes parrlelle each side to each other so I have to wait for that :( FML

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...