Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey blokes looking for an answer to a basic q but just dont want to spend all night looking for it if possiable

mate has a 300zx 31 model vg30 he needs a set of injectors and was told only nismo items will fit due to the fuel rails ok thats fine but what size do nismo items come in? and are all nismo items interchangeable within all nissan stuff ie skyline,silvia,180?

whats the price(reasonable price) on a new set?

price on a 2nd hand set?

thanks guys

Nismo injectors, 555cc for VG30 are around $1300 on tweakit.net - as far as I know, they are all copies of japanese 'denso' injector styles, which all RB engines also use.. depends what the fuel rail diameter is (common sizes are 10.5 and 11mm). Also depends specifically on the year the engine was built and if its NA or not. My guess is any replacement denso injector will fit.

-D

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

VQ engine yeah don't think they renamed the 3.8lt because of the GTR

basing that on no research so im happy to eat humble pie :P

Would you like a spoon Sir :ermm:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VR38DETT

Nissan VR engine

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

(Redirected from VR38DETT)

Jump to:navigation, search

The VR38DETT engine

The VR engine is a 3.8 L V6 piston engine from Nissan. The engine is the product of further development of the widely successful VQ engine series, in particular drawing experience from the JGTC racing engines as well as Nissan's VRH engines from vehicles such as the Nissan R390 GT1.

VR38DETT

This 3.8L twin-turbo DOHC V6 engine is rated by Nissan to produce 485 PS (357 kW; 478 hp) at 6,400 rpm and 60 kg·m (588 N·m; 434 ft·lbf) at 3,200-5,200 rpm in its use in the 2008 Nissan GT-R. With turbos, the motor weighs 608 lb (276 kg).[2] It is so far the only version of the VR engine in production.

Edited by D_Stirls

while on the topic of injectors.

If i put on a ebay style plenum on a 25 neo, and a aftermarket fuel rail (top feed - theres one on ebay that says it suits r32/3/4 GTR - would it work with neo ?) would i be able to use r33 gtr injectors ? And would they be good for roughy 280rwkw ?

Also what type of FPR is best to use with the above ? Stock or go a/m ?

Edited by KISIN
while on the topic of injectors.

If i put on a ebay style plenum on a 25 neo, and a aftermarket fuel rail (top feed - theres one on ebay that says it suits r32/3/4 GTR - would it work with neo ?) would i be able to use r33 gtr injectors ? And would they be good for roughy 280rwkw ?

Also what type of FPR is best to use with the above ? Stock or go a/m ?

Are GTR plenums going to work on a non-GTR? GTR are individual throttle body arent they?

Sorry if I'm guessnig wrong but if this is a road car, aren't these mods gonna turn the car into defect central?

while on the topic of injectors.

If i put on a ebay style plenum on a 25 neo, and a aftermarket fuel rail (top feed - theres one on ebay that says it suits r32/3/4 GTR - would it work with neo ?) would i be able to use r33 gtr injectors ? And would they be good for roughy 280rwkw ?

Also what type of FPR is best to use with the above ? Stock or go a/m ?

the plenum itself, does it come with the throttle assembly too? Sometimes the plenum upgrades are just literally the intake manifold without the throttle bodies as they assume you already have them... cant use GTR injectors because there is a latency difference..... not sure about how it'd work as I know nothing about NEOs sorry.

-D

the plenum itself, does it come with the throttle assembly too? Sometimes the plenum upgrades are just literally the intake manifold without the throttle bodies as they assume you already have them... cant use GTR injectors because there is a latency difference..... not sure about how it'd work as I know nothing about NEOs sorry.

-D

Its a JUN style plenum for an RB25 off ebay, i would use stock TB. Now if i have a bare NEO, what injectors would i put in there for roughly 270-300rwkw ? As in, if i get an aftermarket fuel rail, can i get it to work with GTR 444cc's and be ok for >300rkwk ? (Obviously tryng to do it on a budget)....keyword trying lol.

jrm: not looking to use a GTR plenum.

Cant wait for the next couple of days to be over.

All my seam welding and fuel cell mounts and subframe bracing will be done :D

Also brought another 2 fuel pumps :D 2x bosch 070 as a lift pump from the 57L fuel cell to a 4L swirl pot, then 2 x bosch 044 to a twin entry fuel rail to Bosch 1600cc injectors, with a sard fuel pressure reg.

Cant wait for the next couple of days to be over.

All my seam welding and fuel cell mounts and subframe bracing will be done :D

Also brought another 2 fuel pumps :D 2x bosch 070 as a lift pump from the 57L fuel cell to a 4L swirl pot, then 2 x bosch 044 to a twin entry fuel rail to Bosch 1600cc injectors, with a sard fuel pressure reg.

epic as always mate.

Cant wait for the next couple of days to be over.

All my seam welding and fuel cell mounts and subframe bracing will be done :thumbsup:

Also brought another 2 fuel pumps :banana: 2x bosch 070 as a lift pump from the 57L fuel cell to a 4L swirl pot, then 2 x bosch 044 to a twin entry fuel rail to Bosch 1600cc injectors, with a sard fuel pressure reg.

sounds good, you think the sard will return enough fuel tho, I just switched to a turbosmart 1200, also running twin 044's as a feed, but into 850 sards, only just got it running and seems to be nice and rich on e85, once I've finished fine tuning it i'm guessing ill have around 85-90% duty at 400 ish rwkw.

Lol I gotta set some standard for skylines in Adelaide lol.

Priced up some top of the line ohlins coilovers. Full remote canisters, adjustable, just under $6500 :)

For that kinda money I'd be getting some quotes from Drummond Motorsports.... they make some pretty sexy shockers

-D

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...