Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey blokes looking for an answer to a basic q but just dont want to spend all night looking for it if possiable

mate has a 300zx 31 model vg30 he needs a set of injectors and was told only nismo items will fit due to the fuel rails ok thats fine but what size do nismo items come in? and are all nismo items interchangeable within all nissan stuff ie skyline,silvia,180?

whats the price(reasonable price) on a new set?

price on a 2nd hand set?

thanks guys

Nismo injectors, 555cc for VG30 are around $1300 on tweakit.net - as far as I know, they are all copies of japanese 'denso' injector styles, which all RB engines also use.. depends what the fuel rail diameter is (common sizes are 10.5 and 11mm). Also depends specifically on the year the engine was built and if its NA or not. My guess is any replacement denso injector will fit.

-D

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

VQ engine yeah don't think they renamed the 3.8lt because of the GTR

basing that on no research so im happy to eat humble pie :P

Would you like a spoon Sir :ermm:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VR38DETT

Nissan VR engine

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

(Redirected from VR38DETT)

Jump to:navigation, search

The VR38DETT engine

The VR engine is a 3.8 L V6 piston engine from Nissan. The engine is the product of further development of the widely successful VQ engine series, in particular drawing experience from the JGTC racing engines as well as Nissan's VRH engines from vehicles such as the Nissan R390 GT1.

VR38DETT

This 3.8L twin-turbo DOHC V6 engine is rated by Nissan to produce 485 PS (357 kW; 478 hp) at 6,400 rpm and 60 kg·m (588 N·m; 434 ft·lbf) at 3,200-5,200 rpm in its use in the 2008 Nissan GT-R. With turbos, the motor weighs 608 lb (276 kg).[2] It is so far the only version of the VR engine in production.

Edited by D_Stirls

while on the topic of injectors.

If i put on a ebay style plenum on a 25 neo, and a aftermarket fuel rail (top feed - theres one on ebay that says it suits r32/3/4 GTR - would it work with neo ?) would i be able to use r33 gtr injectors ? And would they be good for roughy 280rwkw ?

Also what type of FPR is best to use with the above ? Stock or go a/m ?

Edited by KISIN
while on the topic of injectors.

If i put on a ebay style plenum on a 25 neo, and a aftermarket fuel rail (top feed - theres one on ebay that says it suits r32/3/4 GTR - would it work with neo ?) would i be able to use r33 gtr injectors ? And would they be good for roughy 280rwkw ?

Also what type of FPR is best to use with the above ? Stock or go a/m ?

Are GTR plenums going to work on a non-GTR? GTR are individual throttle body arent they?

Sorry if I'm guessnig wrong but if this is a road car, aren't these mods gonna turn the car into defect central?

while on the topic of injectors.

If i put on a ebay style plenum on a 25 neo, and a aftermarket fuel rail (top feed - theres one on ebay that says it suits r32/3/4 GTR - would it work with neo ?) would i be able to use r33 gtr injectors ? And would they be good for roughy 280rwkw ?

Also what type of FPR is best to use with the above ? Stock or go a/m ?

the plenum itself, does it come with the throttle assembly too? Sometimes the plenum upgrades are just literally the intake manifold without the throttle bodies as they assume you already have them... cant use GTR injectors because there is a latency difference..... not sure about how it'd work as I know nothing about NEOs sorry.

-D

the plenum itself, does it come with the throttle assembly too? Sometimes the plenum upgrades are just literally the intake manifold without the throttle bodies as they assume you already have them... cant use GTR injectors because there is a latency difference..... not sure about how it'd work as I know nothing about NEOs sorry.

-D

Its a JUN style plenum for an RB25 off ebay, i would use stock TB. Now if i have a bare NEO, what injectors would i put in there for roughly 270-300rwkw ? As in, if i get an aftermarket fuel rail, can i get it to work with GTR 444cc's and be ok for >300rkwk ? (Obviously tryng to do it on a budget)....keyword trying lol.

jrm: not looking to use a GTR plenum.

Cant wait for the next couple of days to be over.

All my seam welding and fuel cell mounts and subframe bracing will be done :D

Also brought another 2 fuel pumps :D 2x bosch 070 as a lift pump from the 57L fuel cell to a 4L swirl pot, then 2 x bosch 044 to a twin entry fuel rail to Bosch 1600cc injectors, with a sard fuel pressure reg.

Cant wait for the next couple of days to be over.

All my seam welding and fuel cell mounts and subframe bracing will be done :D

Also brought another 2 fuel pumps :D 2x bosch 070 as a lift pump from the 57L fuel cell to a 4L swirl pot, then 2 x bosch 044 to a twin entry fuel rail to Bosch 1600cc injectors, with a sard fuel pressure reg.

epic as always mate.

Cant wait for the next couple of days to be over.

All my seam welding and fuel cell mounts and subframe bracing will be done :thumbsup:

Also brought another 2 fuel pumps :banana: 2x bosch 070 as a lift pump from the 57L fuel cell to a 4L swirl pot, then 2 x bosch 044 to a twin entry fuel rail to Bosch 1600cc injectors, with a sard fuel pressure reg.

sounds good, you think the sard will return enough fuel tho, I just switched to a turbosmart 1200, also running twin 044's as a feed, but into 850 sards, only just got it running and seems to be nice and rich on e85, once I've finished fine tuning it i'm guessing ill have around 85-90% duty at 400 ish rwkw.

Lol I gotta set some standard for skylines in Adelaide lol.

Priced up some top of the line ohlins coilovers. Full remote canisters, adjustable, just under $6500 :)

For that kinda money I'd be getting some quotes from Drummond Motorsports.... they make some pretty sexy shockers

-D

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...