Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

man, just putting a wheel back on ruins me (knees)... certainly with the cold weather.

nasty stuff with no patella's

got all this stuff on the go with the r32 rb26 but cant muster the will in my knees to do anything.

so so need a car hoist, and hell a heated garage with plug-in knee warmers would be nice

do u wear pressure braces on ur knees? probably a dumb question but i use em on my wrists for RSI

sounds like u need some bionic knees dude, either that or get em chopped off and get a couple of struts bolted to ur femur and get urself a spare rim and run a single toyo r1r on it...

-D

ive got a box of baking soda in the kitchen

just trying to work out what mixture to use as the last time i did it , well failed epicly because corrosion is back again ...

Baking Soda is what pro mechanics use with warm water , no real trick to doing it , but you must prevent corrosion by taking that battery out , which by the way its illegal to use a wet cell battery in the boot of your car ADR without proper venting,drain holes. and as you can see , there a crappy battery that farks everything when it spills. buy a gel cell or AGM battery and redo the connectors , no more corrosion from acid

plus the car will thank you by starting easier

boiling water does sweet fark all , unless you want to make things steamy too..lol or if you rinse with it.

you can get a battery spray that coats the terminals with some redish oily crap to seal the corrosion off, might find it in a boat store , haven't seen it in normal car shops here in OZ

Good news Luke!

In other news, dropped my head off to Rhemac tonight, wicked set up they have going there, some serious work gets pumped out of there! Bad news is I left there with more options, and unfortunately, more money to spend. It's more of a case as to how far do you go, you need to draw the line somewhere, I just don't know where that is

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...