Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

What's the issue? Tune related?

Could be a number of things. It's not there to make epic power. I just wanted him to throw it on and make sure everything was okay. But if its losing that much power something has to be wrong.

Just made a phenomenal 160kw@ 9-10psi!

Obviously Shaun @ BoostWorx is fixing it.

out of a 26 that is definitely low power.....i know your not after epic numbers but still should be higher then that......pretty sure Shaun will nut it all out and let you know what is going wrong with it.....hopefully nothing major mate.....

A stock RB25 (flywheel 187kw) only makes around 140rwkw. A stock S15 (147kw) makes 114rwkw. My stock V35 (206kw) makes 146rwkw. 160rwkw for a stock, tired nearly 20 years old GTR sounds reasonable.

my RB20. 172kw > engine feeling sick > 110kw

Hope you get it sorted mate, but the extra 2psi its missing for whatever reason would counteract some of the difference...

Thats exactly what I thought.

No boost restrictor, front pipes, catback and pods should of surely opened up the breathing a whole lot more.

Thats exactly what I thought.

No boost restrictor, front pipes, catback and pods should of surely opened up the breathing a whole lot more.

My last car had most of the things youve listed there, and it would run a whopping 4psi on "stock" boost. I needed a boost tee to actually get it up to the standard 7psi. Funny thing is, they had a boost cut at 12psi with a buzzer that went off in the cabin when it hit... I could get my guage to read around 11-11.5psi when it hit. It wasnt leaking boost, it simply just didnt run would it should have without help.

I dont know if wastegate actuators get dodgey over time or not, but this car was in the same age bracket.

I just had a thought, if the BPV(s) was leaking and recirculating back into the intake, could that cause it?

My last car had most of the things youve listed there, and it would run a whopping 4psi on "stock" boost. I needed a boost tee to actually get it up to the standard 7psi. Funny thing is, they had a boost cut at 12psi with a buzzer that went off in the cabin when it hit... I could get my guage to read around 11-11.5psi when it hit. It wasnt leaking boost, it simply just didnt run would it should have without help.

I dont know if wastegate actuators get dodgey over time or not, but this car was in the same age bracket.

I just had a thought, if the BPV(s) was leaking and recirculating back into the intake, could that cause it?

Maybe, but would it be enough to only take off 2psi? On the standard boost gauge I get to the line under +7. +7 apparently being 1 bar or 14.7psi. So I assumed I'd be around 10-11psi.

But when Shaun said it should be making atleast 190kw @10-11psi and 230-250 on 14psi.

He said it could be a timing issue or exhaust issue. But it could be a combination seeing as I've just got a compliance cat (bashed) and some thrashed out trust front pipes and dirty dirty dirty apexi pods. That surely isn't helping me at all.

Maybe, but would it be enough to only take off 2psi? On the standard boost gauge I get to the line under +7. +7 apparently being 1 bar or 14.7psi. So I assumed I'd be around 10-11psi.

But when Shaun said it should be making atleast 190kw @10-11psi and 230-250 on 14psi.

He said it could be a timing issue or exhaust issue. But it could be a combination seeing as I've just got a compliance cat (bashed) and some thrashed out trust front pipes and dirty dirty dirty apexi pods. That surely isn't helping me at all.

Its suprising how much difference little things can make. I gained noticably more punch just by removing the resonator from my 3" stainless exhaust. - unfortunately I cant vouch for how much it was in KW, but you get the idea.

Ask RBWARE how much difference an exhaust can make to your power output!

Also, I dont think the boost stock guage works very well somehow :rolleyes:

Its 14psi man, and if it weren't my engine would lean out and go BANG! as I only have standard injectors. And the standard boost gauge represents 14psi where it hits and sits all day everyday

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lamb roast on Saturday will be different 🥲
    • They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
×
×
  • Create New...