The Sa Wasteland

[SLED]

to break it down

2007 - bought gtr, 14psi = 210kw

2009 - dynoed after injector replacement, 180kw (put down to rich mix)

2010 - after nistune, 130kw put down to totally munted timing and enrichment map

- cam timing reverted mechanically, 180kw at 10psi with same tune as above

- estimated 210/220kw on stock turbos at 13/14psi (wont bother with this)

- estimated 300kw on N1 turbos at 20psi with correct ignition timing and correct fuel map

more info to come as i mod the bugger

-D

I'm guessing your valve timing was out 3 - 5 deg , not teeth, yeah?

So they adjusted your ignition timing to compensate for incorrect cam & crank sync??............never gonna work

You probably won't know your car once you get both sorted.........also, I wouldn't be running 20 psi on N1's for a daily

[typevu]

F*ck yeh, 34 is rolling

might bring it out into some sun light tomorrow

Woop woop! Hoist is back open for business now

[Weezy]

tandems with weezy - highlight of my day !

Absolutely loved the tandems!

[Dohmar]

I'm guessing your valve timing was out 3 - 5 deg , not teeth, yeah?

Yep, precisely

So they adjusted your ignition timing to compensate for incorrect cam & crank sync??............never gonna work

Worked until I actually had to do something that required the nistune -

You probably won't know your car once you get both sorted.........also, I wouldn't be running 20 psi on N1's for a daily

Been told from multiple sources that 20psi is more than fine for N1's, even as a daily, provided it tapers off at the higher revs - but you are right, going to 300kw is going to kick arse and hopefully make up for all the weeks when ive had no cash cos ive blown it on car parts

-D

[J - Rad]

Yep, precisely

Worked until I actually had to do something that required the nistune -

Been told from multiple sources that 20psi is more than fine for N1's, even as a daily, provided it tapers off at the higher revs - but you are right, going to 300kw is going to kick arse and hopefully make up for all the weeks when ive had no cash cos ive blown it on car parts

-D

Hope you've budgeted for a rebuild. 20psi won't keep that bottom end for long!

[J - Rad]

Yep, precisely

Worked until I actually had to do something that required the nistune -

Been told from multiple sources that 20psi is more than fine for N1's, even as a daily, provided it tapers off at the higher revs - but you are right, going to 300kw is going to kick arse and hopefully make up for all the weeks when ive had no cash cos ive blown it on car parts

-D

Hope you've budgeted for a rebuild. 20psi won't keep that bottom end for long!

[Dohmar]

Hope you've budgeted for a rebuild. 20psi won't keep that bottom end for long!

nonsense - up to 22psi is ok for a stock engine in decent nick, i know of other people with n1 turbos which have been able to run 20 psi on the track with stock afms and ecu, doing 320odd kw for over 3 years reliably.

ive planned a rebuild for 2012 - going to 2.7lt with forged goodies and proper oil control - if it does happen to blow some rings or something minor, i wont be fussed about doing it earlier - will go for nitto pistons, oil pump, get enlarged sump, welch plug return, mines head journals, autech catch can, etc

around $7k worth of parts which I'll accumulate over 2011... got enough stuff to do this year without messing with the engine (after the n1s get fitted and tuned) but ive done all the proper supporting mods to safely run 20psi and do a conservative high 200/low 300 kilowatt setup

-D

[SLED]

Ben, you'd be doing well to do over 320 atw with stock ECU & AFM's but at 20-22 psi, it's not just bottom end you'd have to consider in a daily, get used to cooler hoses popping off in peak hour traffic on your way to work just for starters.....and your $$ figure for all those mods with labour will see it double very easily

[Dohmar]

Ben, you'd be doing well to do over 320 atw with stock ECU & AFM's but at 20-22 psi, it's not just bottom end you'd have to consider in a daily, get used to cooler hoses popping off in peak hour traffic on your way to work just for starters.....and your $$ figure for all those mods with labour will see it double very easily

i dont have stock ecu - i have nistune

i dont have stock afms - i have nismo

i dont have stock injectors - have 575's

im not saying i necessarily have to be running 20 psi over the entire pwer curve - its probably only required for a very specific section between 5 and 6k rpm

the fact im getting 180kw on 10psi rather than the 14psi/180kw i had after i changed the injectors is a good sign, esp since the car today ran like it had been kicked in the scrote - no doubt once the n1's are fitted and shaun gets his hands on the tune, we can get a nice result - if it doesnt make 300kw i couldnt give a shit, i just want it to be responsive and reliable

-D

Edit - and popping cooler hoses off during peak hour? cmon man i dont even get my car on boost during peak hour, let alone enough to generate max boost

[J - Rad]

nonsense - up to 22psi is ok for a stock engine in decent nick, i know of other people with n1 turbos which have been able to run 20 psi on the track with stock afms and ecu, doing 320odd kw for over 3 years reliably.

ive planned a rebuild for 2012 - going to 2.7lt with forged goodies and proper oil control - if it does happen to blow some rings or something minor, i wont be fussed about doing it earlier - will go for nitto pistons, oil pump, get enlarged sump, welch plug return, mines head journals, autech catch can, etc

around $7k worth of parts which I'll accumulate over 2011... got enough stuff to do this year without messing with the engine (after the n1s get fitted and tuned) but ive done all the proper supporting mods to safely run 20psi and do a conservative high 200/low 300 kilowatt setup

-D

Just some of the parts for the 2.7ltr already blow that $7k budget. How do you know what condition your motors in? Are you using a metal head gasket? 20psi on n1/-7s is even stretching them. 18psi would probably be straining your 20 year old bottom end.

[Dohmar]

Just some of the parts for the 2.7ltr already blow that $7k budget. How do you know what condition your motors in? Are you using a metal head gasket? 20psi on n1/-7s is even stretching them. 18psi would probably be straining your 20 year old bottom end.

we'll see wont we

-D

[Nightcrawler]

No disrespect intended Ben, but I see in the near future a "I've blown a hole through the side of my block, whacked a piston on my valves and entirely fu[ked my RB26 waaaa waaaa waaa" thread ....

/sits in wait

[craig R33]

iv done that.... can i make a waaa waaa thread?

[J - Rad]

Didn't you already?

[Aberax]

No disrespect intended Ben, but I see in the near future a "I've blown a hole through the side of my block, whacked a piston on my valves and entirely fu[ked my RB26 waaaa waaaa waaa" thread ....

/sits in wait

Then he can buy the RB26 you are holding onto...if you don't sell it before hand.

[SLED]

nonsense - up to 22psi is ok for a stock engine in decent nick, i know of other people with n1 turbos which have been able to run 20 psi on the track with stock afms and ecu, doing 320odd kw for over 3 years reliably.

-D

not necessarily referring to you

[Dohmar]

No disrespect intended Ben, but I see in the near future a "I've blown a hole through the side of my block, whacked a piston on my valves and entirely fu[ked my RB26 waaaa waaaa waaa" thread ....

/sits in wait

Its all very well for you pseudo mechanics to sit back on the forum and make estimates as to what my engine can and cannot do

I happen to have the estimates confirmed by road and track as well as the guy whos making the turbo

the compression test indicates all cylinders are within 10psi of each other, and having paid as much attention to the rb26 performance thread as you Andrew, I know for a fact that 300kw is not pushing a set of N1's by an stretch of the imagination

i for one will trust the advice of the very mechanic that has worked on the car for the last 3 years, rather than a bunch of armchair tuners who never even looked underneath the hood

incidentally, i have the first series of rb26's from the nissan factory. my vin no is 3129/89. The block is as known to be as strong as an N1.

Theres no f**king way Im going to blow a f**king piston thru the f**king side of the f**king block, and you know why? Cos i spend the f**king money on f**king tuning and never let anything run lean.... case f**king closed....

You guys are like a bunch of italian grandmothers trying to stop their granddaughters from getting some dick in em

-D

[heslo]

Its all very well for you pseudo mechanics to sit back on the forum and make estimates as to what my engine can and cannot do

I happen to have the estimates confirmed by road and track as well as the guy whos making the turbo

the compression test indicates all cylinders are within 10psi of each other, and having paid as much attention to the rb26 performance thread as you Andrew, I know for a fact that 300kw is not pushing a set of N1's by an stretch of the imagination

i for one will trust the advice of the very mechanic that has worked on the car for the last 3 years, rather than a bunch of armchair tuners who never even looked underneath the hood

incidentally, i have the first series of rb26's from the nissan factory. my vin no is 3129/89. The block is as known to be as strong as an N1.

Theres no f**king way Im going to blow a f**king piston thru the f**king side of the f**king block, and you know why? Cos i spend the f**king money on f**king tuning and never let anything run lean.... case f**king closed....

You guys are like a bunch of italian grandmothers trying to stop their granddaughters from getting some dick in em

-D

Che'? I've NEVER heard this before, got a link to back that up?

[Carbon 34]

i dont have stock ecu - i have nistune

i dont have stock afms - i have nismo

i dont have stock injectors - have 575's

im not saying i necessarily have to be running 20 psi over the entire pwer curve - its probably only required for a very specific section between 5 and 6k rpm

the fact im getting 180kw on 10psi rather than the 14psi/180kw i had after i changed the injectors is a good sign, esp since the car today ran like it had been kicked in the scrote - no doubt once the n1's are fitted and shaun gets his hands on the tune, we can get a nice result - if it doesnt make 300kw i couldnt give a shit, i just want it to be responsive and reliable

-D

Edit - and popping cooler hoses off during peak hour? cmon man i dont even get my car on boost during peak hour, let alone enough to generate max boost

I think you overlooked something else Ben, you will need to take stock in BP..lol it's really hard to stay off the power in traffic jams, point and squirt becomes a habit..lol = chewing thru fuel

overheating in traffic

clutch holding up to traffic jams

and the worse,, po po defecting your daily.

cars are a money pit , fun..... but eat money..lol

why run on the edge of the safety of the engine power in a daily driver, makes more sense to tune to 75-80% power then 100%

really we do live in the 50k zone.. state cause it saves lives.. yeah right!!

N1 block won't save a rod from loosing the end cap and blowing a hole thru the block. I've wasted a few engines in my day , some just off idle not on boost..hahaha destroyed the block in my EVO/ VR4 20k ENGINE

[Dohmar]

Che'? I've NEVER heard this before, got a link to back that up?

yer got several

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/43039-darton-sl...rb26-block.html

http://www.skylineowners.com/test/showthre...-Head-and-Block

http://www.nissanforums.com/nissan-gtr-sky...26dett-awd.html

http://www.skylineowners.com/test/showthre...r-32-33-engines

"The early 32 blocks up until February 1990 (correct me if im wrong) had a wall thickness that was the same as the groupA racers in Japan. After that Nissan decided to cut the thickness of the block with cost cutting as one of the main reasons for mass production of the engine.

Also, r32 cranks are known to have a very thin drive collar connecting onto the oil pump. This was revised on 33's afaik (to what extent im unsure), and on 34's they were given a new design with a much improved widened collar.

As a visual on 33 RB26's, the breather pipe coming from the RHS cam breather was a steel pipe compared with the rubber one of the R32's."

-D

-EDIT Troy Ive never gone on boost in peak hour because I keep it under 3500. I wont have that problem.