Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I only ran it for 20 or so seconds...maybe (hopefully this will be the issue?) How does the fuel get dumped in the cylinder when you remove the injectors? When I pulled out the stock rail and injectors no fuel came out until I popped out the stock injectors - then the rail was quite dry when I put in the S15 ones?

Ahh i always leave the rail in place, when changing injectors, save alot of time (we do round 3 sets a week).

OK....well I got off work early today, so had a chance to play with the PFC....

Adjusted the injectors' % and lag times to the recommended values (tried everything in this thread) without success. Also dropped all of them right back to 25% - the AFR increased slightly to around 13 - 14, but it was still running rich, idling really rough, missing (?) when revved, and blowing smoke (fuel) out the exhaust....

I'll take the injectors and fuel rail out on Saturday and take it to a fuel injection shop....

When I take it to the shop what should I ask for, or ask them to do?

Can anyone recommend any fuel injections specialists around Perth, WA?

Thanks,

Peter

I don't suppose you accidently changed your AFM setting in the Power FC ?

I did that once when poking around and rang my tuner staight away thinking i'd ruined my $500 tune.

Mine was blowing black smoke and so rough it was ridiculous.

That was the 1st thing he said to check.....i accidently flipped it to something other than standard R33, flicked it back and hew presto! Just an idea.....good luck

Thanks for the suggestion Birnie.

No AFM is still the same, I have a Z32 and this is selected within the AFM menu.

Thanks for the suggestion anyways!

Pete

ill still bet money its a nicked o-ring on the injectors.....

I have said it before in this thread THE CAR WILL RUN FINE WITH THE INJECTORS SET TO 100% IN THE PFC AS THEY ARE ONLY SLIGHTLY BIGGER THAN STD 440 up from 370cc..... You have another issue, nicked or incorrect oring.... i see this about 3 times a week @ my shop from guys incorrectly fitting them themselves.

Edited by URAS
ill still bet money its a nicked o-ring on the injectors.....

I have said it before in this thread THE CAR WILL RUN FINE WITH THE INJECTORS SET TO 100% IN THE PFC AS THEY ARE ONLY SLIGHTLY BIGGER THAN STD 440 up from 370cc..... You have another issue, nicked or incorrect oring.... i see this about 3 times a week @ my shop from guys incorrectly fitting them themselves.

Yeah, I think this is the issue....pulled the fuel rail with injectors out today and there was fuel leaking around the pintle caps. Left the fuel rail sitting in the sink for a while, and a few of the injectors continued to leak fuel from around the pintle caps...must be the o-rings...

I don't understand though...I bought the right o-rings, fitted them, and as the injector shop recommended, sprayed a bit of WD40 on them and slid them into the rail...they weren't sticking or anything... I did the final tighten with the end caps and screws....oh well...off to the injector shop to get them to fit, clean and flow...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...