Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So what happened to you getting it done under the warranty you were so sure you were going to get? :bunny:

Told you it wouldn't be fixed for free. :cool:

For $1200 id be talking to hypergear about a brand new turbo

Try the ART28G4 including internal gate kit oil line and dump pipe its costing me $1330 delivered will flow over 300rwkw

Why would he put a bush bearing turbo in place of the ball bearing he has now?

Makes little sense to me, especially when the GCG turbo is ready to go. Just new wheels and cartridge.

The GCG item is superior in every way, and hence they are $1700 or whatever new as opposed to cheaper hi-flows which are $1200

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

So what happened to you getting it done under the warranty you were so sure you were going to get? ;)

Told you it wouldn't be fixed for free. :cool:

I can't be f**ked arguing with them, I could get it sent back, get bill to do a full inspection but then I would have to take them to court, I was hoping it was an installation error or something clear cut that I could get the workshop to pay for but if it was a balancing issue then because it seized (would have cooked everything when that happened) it probably has all the signs of excessive EGTs and Id just have my thumb up my bum for months.

You love rubbing salt in peoples wounds don't you nismoid :bunny: sure you are probably right most the time but you come across as a cynical cranky old man some times lol.

I guess I could ask for all the damaged parts to be sent back with the new turbo, that would be a fair request wouldn't it? then I could get a third party specialist to examine the damage. In fact I think I will do that, not like they can re use the wheels, bent shaft and shagged bearings.

Well since GCG build your turbo its probably good idea to work some thing out with them.

If you can't work things out, and assume it is a Garrett BB CHRA that is in it and your turbine wheel is not broken we should be able to overhaul it for you in its original Ball bearing form for lot less then $1200.

Also for our sleeve bearing units. Well it is cheaper to build, and I believe this is still the most reliable setup for aged engines. I still get full boost at 3500RPM out of our 520HP Turbo. We've lighted the shaft and modified the bearings for minimum friction, its not really the same as the older Garrett's sleeve setups.

Yeah I've already given them the go ahead but I'm going to ask for the bits back.

You could honestly do new bearings, front + rear wheel, shaft and balancing for _a lot_ less than $1200? How much is a lot, and do you use the same parts? This is more out of curiosity as they have probably already started work on it.

Both wheels have hit the housing but it was only for maybe 30 seconds under vac so the damage is minimal, however with something that spins at 150,000rpm I really doubt that you would risk re using it even after putting it on a balancing machine.

I can't be f**ked arguing with them, I could get it sent back, get bill to do a full inspection but then I would have to take them to court, I was hoping it was an installation error or something clear cut that I could get the workshop to pay for but if it was a balancing issue then because it seized (would have cooked everything when that happened) it probably has all the signs of excessive EGTs and Id just have my thumb up my bum for months.

You love rubbing salt in peoples wounds don't you nismoid :cool: sure you are probably right most the time but you come across as a cynical cranky old man some times lol.

I guess I could ask for all the damaged parts to be sent back with the new turbo, that would be a fair request wouldn't it? then I could get a third party specialist to examine the damage. In fact I think I will do that, not like they can re use the wheels, bent shaft and shagged bearings.

Sometimes people just have to find out for themselves :bunny:

If there are markings as GCG say - you will NEVER be able to prove otherwise mate. Just because you are running 12:1 AFR on that day doesn't mean there was an issue with the motor/car before you brought it or any other situation i could easily think of ;)

If there are blue scores on the bearings etc, it could also be oil related as other people have said - it is very easy to have a turbo inlet block up.

If you can't work things out with them, and assume it is a Garrett BB CHRA that is in it and your turbine wheel is not broken we should be able to overhaul it for you in its original Ball bearing form for lot less then $1200.

Cartridge is what, $1000? Plus new wheels, balancing and machining whatever damage the wheels did (which sounds like there is some)

For $1200, it is a good price. You won't get a ball bearing turbo rebuild for any less than that IMO.

it could also be oil related as other people have said - it is very easy to have a turbo inlet block up.

For $1200, it is a good price. You won't get a ball bearing turbo rebuild for any less than that IMO.

If its getting 1.6L/minute of good uncontaminated oil at idle then surely oil can be ruled out?

And yes I agree, I think this is definitely my cheapest option and from someone else's perspective a very good price, I am happy they aren't charging me labour as well.

At the end of they day I got the car for a steal with $20k in receipts so although I'm coughing up for it now I will still come out further ahead than if I did all this work myself.

Now as for when the turbo goes back on the car, to make sure I do not have a repeat episode what should I check?

The cat and mufflers are not blocked, the oil and water supply appears clean and to flow sufficiently, the car will be getting a completely new tune from a different tuner. I will also request that they laser gun the dump pipe/housing to see what sort of temps it is getting. What else should I be checking?

Edited by Rolls

To overhaul the turbo with original Garrett Ball bearing bit is $700. And a comp wheel is $180. slap every thing together and you are back on the road.

The turbine shaft is the most expansive part, depends on the part No. They cost aorund $300.

The Oil out put volume is fine for BB CHRAs. They don't needs much oil to run, But the oil that goes into it needs to be very clean.

The turbine shaft is the most expansive part, if that is not good then we need to check up the part No. and get you a price on that. They'll be aorund $300 mark.

Quite sure this is what caused the issue, it was running off centre due to it being out of balance, or the balancing weight drooping. So I imagine this is gone.

So yeah thats $700 + $180 + $300 + rear wheel + assembly and freight >= $1200

Thanks for the offer though. :cool:

edit: I've been advised that a blocked oil drain could cause the oil burning that I experienced but put down to poor sealing on the forged pistons, how would I check that the oil drain is not blocked and is working correctly?

I plan to remove the line and check that it is not blocked, but how would I check that the actual drain into the block is not partially blocked?

Edited by Rolls

Depends on how bad the turbine shaft is. In most of the time its the ring grove that wears. That could be sleeved and re cut pretty cheaply. and even it is bent we have machines to make it straight. But if the fins are broken or gone then that can not be re-used.

so let me get this right? the turbo was unbalance? and you are paying for it to be replaced or fixed?

No they said the cause was excessive EGTs, the turbo guy here in Adelaide said thats a load of shit and it is far more likely it was not balanced correctly.

There is absolutely no way to prove that they are lying to me so I have to suck it up and pay. What would you do Kaido_RR ? I could ask for the turbo to be sent back, get an independent investigation to the failure, it will probably be inconclusive but leaning one way, I then have to take them to court and chances are I dont win, I burn my bridges and they will no longer deal with me. I am then left with nothing. Also the turbo is out of warranty, technically however if it is deemed an unreasonable failure I can still take them to court and get the repair for free, but then I have to prove that the turbo failure was 'unreasonable' even though it was out of its 12 month warranty. I can't prove the turbo wasn't used everyday for that period and that my 2500km claim is true.

At least this way I get a new turbo with 12 month warranty for fairly cheap, I am still going to ask for the broken bits back though so I can get some sort of opinion on the mode of failure that is 100% un biased.

Edited by Rolls
No they said the cause was excessive EGTs, the turbo guy here in Adelaide said thats a load of shit and it is far more likely it was not balanced correctly.

There is absolutely no way to prove that they are lying to me so I have to suck it up and pay. What would you do Kaido_RR ? I could ask for the turbo to be sent back, get an independent investigation to the failure, it will probably be inconclusive but leaning one way, I then have to take them to court and chances are I dont win, I burn my bridges and they will no longer deal with me. I am then left with nothing. Also the turbo is out of warranty, technically however if it is deemed an unreasonable failure I can still take them to court and get the repair for free, but then I have to prove that the turbo failure was 'unreasonable' even though it was out of its 12 month warranty. I can't prove the turbo wasn't used everyday for that period and that my 2500km claim is true.

At least this way I get a new turbo with 12 month warranty for fairly cheap, I am still going to ask for the broken bits back though so I can get some sort of opinion on the mode of failure that is 100% un biased.

fair enough, its just that i would not be buying the same turbo again.

having a turbo unbalance is a pretty big deal, don't understand how a brand new turbo can have this issue if the company has the correct quality control.

fair enough, its just that i would not be buying the same turbo again.

having a turbo unbalance is a pretty big deal, don't understand how a brand new turbo can have this issue if the company has the correct quality control.

If you read the rest of the thread you would see that for the price I am paying nothing will come close, anything even similar will be an extra $500-700 in cost for no gain.

If it took 2500kms for the turbo to fail it would have to have been an impossibly small imbalance, anything else would cause the turbo to shit itself almost immediately, it most likely would not have shown up on their machine, otherwise as you said their quality control would not have let it be sold.

I personally believe that I just got unlucky, you don't hear theres stories very often.

fair enough, its just that i would not be buying the same turbo again.

having a turbo unbalance is a pretty big deal, don't understand how a brand new turbo can have this issue if the company has the correct quality control.

If there are blue scores as GCG said - they how do you deduce balancing?

Where did you even pull that from? The person who said it was balancing has not even pulled the turbo apart, so its nothing more than speculation.

The turbo did seize at one put so I imagine that would have caused severe overheating as I reved it to about 4 under-load as I wasn't sure what had happened. Could have been the cause of the blue scores. The exhaust wheel showed no signs of overheating though.

I personally think they are just taking you for a ride, it was probably their fault but they know you really cant do much about it so have decided to charge you to rebuild it.

Its a lot of hassle to get an independant person to look at it then take it to a small claims court, but then you would probably at least get your money back.

That said, id say you have probably done $1200 bucks worth of damage to GCG's reputation as a result, so dont feel too bad.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...