Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I've got an EP82 Toyota starlet. Like most imported cars, these things run rich straight out of factory. I recently wack a SS mainfold, SR20 turbo in it. Car runs beautiful on boost but off boost is an issue......

It runs way too rich off boost (from 2000rpm to 3500rpm) to a point where it created mis-fire sometime. I've checked everything, thermal switch works, watertemp sensor works, O2 sensor works, engine light don't come up, change sparkies, change igintion leads.......ect still won't fix the problem.

Long shot here on this forums but someone might have an answer,

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292697-map-sensor-car-running-way-too-rich/
Share on other sites

Get an aftermarket ECU and tune it properly? Of course its not going to run properly. It would be expecting the tiny turbo to be on boost much sooner so thats probably why its overfueling down low. Could be running lean on boost as well. Seriously get it tuned with a copgy back fuel controller or a full ecu asap before you break it.

Edited by Rolls
Get an aftermarket ECU and tune it properly? Of course its not going to run properly. It would be expecting the tiny turbo to be on boost much sooner so thats probably why its overfueling down low. Could be running lean on boost as well. Seriously get it tuned with a copgy back fuel controller or a full ecu asap before you break it.

Thanks,

What i thought but i also thought that it should be able to sense boost pressure, when boost kick in and such but i guess not :P. SAFC it is.

Thanks,

What i thought but i also thought that it should be able to sense boost pressure, when boost kick in and such but i guess not :P . SAFC it is.

It will but who knows what the max level the stock map sensor can handle? Its probably reaching load points its not meant to and running wrong size injectors etc. I'd be betting the stock computer is just going wtf and not knowing what to do.

I had a Starlet once, and you do not need a remap, the map sensor reads until 1,25 bar. Stock injectors will make 200hp for sure.

Check your vaccum hoses, it is VERY possible tha this is the cause.

Just because it can sense that much doesn't mean it knows what to do with the values. How do we know what the manafactures had in mind when they programmed the computer? If it exceeds load cells and the max pressure it expects to run it could just dump fuel and retard timing all over the board for a preset amount of time. There's no way to know.

I had a Starlet once, and you do not need a remap, the map sensor reads until 1,25 bar. Stock injectors will make 200hp for sure.

Check your vaccum hoses, it is VERY possible tha this is the cause.

Yeah, i've been told about Vacum hoses, has done lots of checking but not on the dyno so can't really tell while its under pressure.

Turbo A and Turbo B can both be at the same boost pressure... The difference is, they're flowing different amounts of air.

This is why the tune is up the shit.

Go and get it tuned. Nothing else to be said.

Guys,

I did a stupid test :) , ran the car with the O2 sensor un-plug and guess what...........it ran faultlessly lol. Does that mean the O2 sensor shat itself?

Quite likely, I would still put it on a dyno, you don't want to pop your motor because its pinging/running lean/rich. Only cost you $50 or so.

Quite likely, I would still put it on a dyno, you don't want to pop your motor because its pinging/running lean/rich. Only cost you $50 or so.

Oh yeah i'm still going to run it on a dyno first just to be safe but i think at least i've got to the bottom of it.....phew.

Guys it was making problems OFF BOOST, there was no problem when on boost, nothing to do with tune when off boost. 4EFTE's are very rich from the factory they handle EXTREMELY well at 0.6 boost with OEM setup, Trust me i had one with 315hp and searched a lot.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...