Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey

Ive seen on the internet that the engine power ratings on the R34s with the Neo Straight six's are quiet impressive...

Ive seen 2L neos advertised but havnt read about them...

The 2.5L Non Turbo producing 200kW

2.5L Turbo producing 206kW (same as 2.6L Twin Turbo but less torque).

Ive read this on the internet a few times..

Just making sure its correct? And also what does the 2L engine produce seeing as some R34s have them (so ppl advertise)??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29277-skyline-r34/
Share on other sites

I read it in errr... a site lol

How come the neo engines are so much more powerful??

Not that im complaining! :)

Read the N/A was 200kW but a fair bit less in torque...

206kW is the legal limit in Japan for stock engines im guessin right..?

Because all major engines STOCK from diff makes etc 206kW.

I cant wait to get an R34!!! Be waitin for a few years tho... :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29277-skyline-r34/#findComment-599882
Share on other sites

The neos are also in the Nissan Laurel.

Well the rb25det Neo has different ignition timing ( more advanced VVT system). I guess thats how it got some of its extra power.

All the Neo Motors use whats called a Lean-burn System. Hence ( low fuel consumption )

I found out that there is a 2L neo. It delivers maximum power of 155HP. which really isnt much. I suppose its pretty good for an NA 2L

It would have cost nissan alot more money getting 200kw out of a 2 litre.

Now you said that the 2.5L Neo "NON" turbo makes 200KW

Then you said the 2.5L Neo "TURBO" makes 206KW. What is the point of the turbocharged motor if they both make the same power??

Nissan could have kept the 2.5L an NA motor and still get GTR power.

Well really the 2.5 NA does not make 200KW, Its 200HP

the Neo RB25DET model makes 206KW (280HP)/6,400 RPM

34.0KG/3,200 RPM

CR = 9:0:1

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29277-skyline-r34/#findComment-599922
Share on other sites

The R34 25GT (NEO RB25DE) makes 200PS standard (around 200bhp), not sure KW's. which is slightly more than the RB25DE found in the earlier R32/R33. The engine also has higher torque outputs, and late model R34's have a slight improvement over earlier R34's. AFAIK, R34's were available with either Triptronic Auto boxes (+ / - gear change and steering wheel controls) or a 5sp manual.

On paper the R34 GTT (RB25DET) and the R34 GTR (RB26DETT) put out the same power (280ps), but of course, that's "on paper"...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29277-skyline-r34/#findComment-599980
Share on other sites

>jazza08: Looks like your confusing yourself there dude! :)

Just relax, one question at a time, and "All will be rrrrrrrrrrrrrevealed"... (Thumbwars)

Thanks Dave for that "Gem" :) about the Neo-6 power outputs... seriously, how many mouse clicks did it take to get some official figures? 4? 5?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29277-skyline-r34/#findComment-599985
Share on other sites

Rezz - about 3 or 4!! :):):(

As an aside, most of the people I know of, who drive an R34 with the triptronic box say that don't usually bother with the steering controls...

I personally think Nissan did a very good job in upping the power figures for the R34 range, by tweaking the RB series engines, improving (or adding?) VVT to the NEO engines they managed to boost power/torque by a fair bit...

So that always raises the question - how come the R34 GTR doesn't get VVT and NEO technology?

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29277-skyline-r34/#findComment-600056
Share on other sites

i'm no expert, but i think that the GTRs actually have a stock output close to 300kw, probably a little less. The only reason that they say it has 206kw is to comply (ON PAPER) with the regulations. And i think that there are no more restrictions in japan for power output, need i say more about the next GTRs power??? again im no expert, so someone correct me if i'm wrong.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29277-skyline-r34/#findComment-600250
Share on other sites

If u even take the GT-T power output as correct, 206kw's, a stock dyno run (148rwkw) shows pretty much 30% power loss thru the drive train, that's 30% not 33%. If u translate this powerloss percentage to GTR's at about 190 - 195rwkw's, making them about 280kw's at the fly.

Now i'm not sure if transferring 70% of the engine power to the wheels is reasonable to assume, but if it is 206kw for the GT-T and 280kw for the GTR sound about right.

Oh and just in case u didn't realise, the GTR engine is 2.6 litres and has 2 turbos, instead of one :cheers: RB26DETT

Tiptronic can be done via the gear stick as well yeah? Or is just steering wheel mounted buttons?

And the "206kw" limit was a "gentlemans agreement" in Japan between the different car manufacturers. But if u look at some of the cars that have been produced, 22B STi's, GTR's, Twin Turbo Supras, etc, they haven't been following it completely. But the agreement is no longer so yeah, time for the Japanese cars to mix it with the Euro boys in terms of power output.

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29277-skyline-r34/#findComment-601371
Share on other sites

You can change gears with a tiptronic on the steering wheel or with the gear stick. I have also heard that most people don't use the buttons on the wheel but I do all the time. I think it's because from the very first day I owned it I used them.

The only problem I have is that if you're booting it you have to press the button about 1000rpm before you want it to actually change gears because the revs climb so quickly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29277-skyline-r34/#findComment-601595
Share on other sites

NEO stands for New Environmental Optimisation or sumfin like that, all it duz is make the emissions from the engine better. The increase in power is from the upgraded ECU that accompanies the engine... don't believe the hype :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29277-skyline-r34/#findComment-601839
Share on other sites

Spot on FunkyMonkey - the NEO part of the R34 engines basically means they've tweaked it to produce fewer/cleaner emmisions. However, the R34 engines do benefit from ECU tweaks (and also manifold flow characteristics I've heard) that give it the extra power. Not forgetting improvements in the VVT side of things...

BTW, NEO = Nissan Ecology Orientated performance... :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29277-skyline-r34/#findComment-601987
Share on other sites

The gentleman's agreement is just that, an agreement - it's not legally binding. There is a hell of a lot more mutual agreement between companies in japan, as opposed to western nations. That's one of the reasons why you often find that pricing for similar products can be very similar between different companies (ie: intercoolers, etc).

The reason for the kW (or we should say, ps) limit is (apparently) to keep the companies on a level playing field and/or to stop any potential power 'wars'

If you look at the cars that exceed the kW agreement - they tend to not be directly from the big companies (HSV is to holden as Nismo is to nissan).

IIRC, the car with the most power over the advertised 280ps is the toyota supra (though the s8-9 FD rx7 probably has even more if you consider power:weight)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29277-skyline-r34/#findComment-602108
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...