Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you could make a display showing which gear it was in for any car, but I wouldn't cut up that 300k display for it ?

maybe make one that goes near the shifter instead or LED/Numeric LED lights that come on hidden in the cluster instead of the old fashion ones ?

just a thought ?????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292776-r34-300km-dash/#findComment-4891647
Share on other sites

you could make a display showing which gear it was in for any car, but I wouldn't cut up that 300k display for it ?

maybe make one that goes near the shifter instead or LED/Numeric LED lights that come on hidden in the cluster instead of the old fashion ones ?

just a thought ?????

yeah that maybe a way

i just thought someone out there may have done it before

post-66333-1256118065_thumb.jpg

i was thinking it would be a case of swaping the parts in the red out of the old dash in to the new or the blue parts out of the new into the old

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292776-r34-300km-dash/#findComment-4892834
Share on other sites

The question here is WHY? if you put the cluster in without the display who cares. Or do you need to be remined you in D for drive all the time. For all the bother your thinking of going to what is really the point.

I agree, WHY...lol

plus you better have the other gauges that are missing if your car isnt a GTR ? oil pressure etc.

if your a tiptronic then just build a digital readout and hide it in the dash cluster to know the gear, D for drive hell it should be B for boring to drive with a auto...hahahah IMO

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292776-r34-300km-dash/#findComment-4893608
Share on other sites

I'm no expert in this...

Just swap the tacho and speedo sections over...

Just a thought.

that would work a treat , if the curcuit boards and contact points are the same ????? without seeing one in person its hard to say without spending a while looking into the diagrams.

good luck mate

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292776-r34-300km-dash/#findComment-4895920
Share on other sites

that would work a treat , if the curcuit boards and contact points are the same ????? without seeing one in person its hard to say without spending a while looking into the diagrams.

good luck mate

I'd "imagine" the tacho part would be the same...

speedo - I have no idea.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292776-r34-300km-dash/#findComment-4900609
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I saw this a few nights ago on japan yahoo auctions - first time I ever knew they were made:

http://page10.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/m70743547

You could bid on it through importmonster if you really were desperate for it, but don't expect much change (if any at all) out of $1000 by the time it gets to you...

http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=h...20nismo%20300km

Edited by R34mac
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292776-r34-300km-dash/#findComment-4915866
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah that is not actually a lot. Just painting my GTR frontend and the little bits to make sideskirts/nismo flare pieces work correctly/fit on the sedan/mount up correctly came to about $7000. Is it a lot? Sure. None of this is economical. Economy would be shelling the car and buying a 2010 Corolla to commute in. The perspective of all of this is different.
    • I have the 2025 build re003s’ on my 06 XT Forester Turbo and I quite rate them for street wet and dry
    • I don't see any issues here. I've been saying all along this is a big job, the price reflects that.  When the car comes back perfect I'm sure it will feel like money well spent. 
    • Remember, take original quote. Double it. Then add a bit more. It's how any project goes.
    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
×
×
  • Create New...