N1 Block?

[peggy]

New - so the following questions might be basic to most of you.

What is a RB26 N1 block? Where do you source them from? What do they cost? What is the difference in price to a standard RB26 block.

Reason - Want to prepare a block, so car is not off the road for long when I am ready to replace the bottom end (which according to everyone is only a matter of time, if I track the car (R32GTR) without oil supply upgrades).

Confused! So what $$ are involved to put together a strong bottom end, not over the top, just a reliable combo that can handle up to approx 350 - 380 RWKW:

Option 1

Build a standard RB26 = $

Option 2

Build up a N1 block (or can they be purchased as a complete "crate" bottom end from Japan?) = $

Option 3

Build a RB30 block (have a VL sitting in the shed - so free!) = $

Look forward to the replies/advise

Steve.

[gazza750]

just jap http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=334&page=1

THIS ENGINE IS NO LONGER AVAILABLE TO PURCHASE FROM NISSAN

- Brand New R33 GTR N1 Long Motor

- Fully Assembled

- All Components Brand new

- Ready to Install

- 500PS Package

Engine Package Includes:

- Front Differential

- Sump

- Tomei 1.2mm Metal Head Gasket

- Tomei Metal Intake Manifold Gaskets

- Tomei Metal Exhaust Manifold Gaskets

- Tomei Poncam Type B Camshafts (260 Deg/9.15mm)

- JJR Adjustable Cam Gears

- Sard 700cc Injectors

- Sard Dual Entry Fuel Rail

- HPI Stainless Dump Pipes

- SSI Premium Stainless Exhaust Manifolds

- HKS GT-SS Twin Turbo Kit

- Gates Strengthened Silicone Timing Belt

- Trust Clear Timing Belt Cover

- Nismo Engine Oil Cooler Sandwich Plate

- Nismo Engine Mounts

- JJR Direct Ignition Coil Packs

- NGK BCPR6EIX-11 Iridium Spark Plug Set

- N1 Oil Pump

- N1 Water Pump

- Cooling-Pro Silicone Water Hose Set

- Ceramic Coated Plenum

- R34 GTR NUR Coil Cover Emblem

- HKS Oil Cap

- New Genuine Nissan Air Regulator

Engine Internal Specifications:

Displacement: 2568cc

Bore: 86mm

Stroke: 73.7mm

Compression: 8.5:1

Block: N1

Pistons: N1

Conrods: N1

Details

SKU BUILTN1ENGINE-JJR

Quantity in stock 1 item(s) available

Price: AUD 23000.00

[peggy]

Very nice.............

But you might have to borrow me some cash..........

[R32 Driver]

Really depends what parts you put into it

Any headwork? a built rb26 would be the cheapest be around the 8-10k mark

N1 is a 24U block which has higher nickel content i think....

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=1&featured

3k ontop of the rebuilt rb26

rb30 into a GTR would need an adapter plate

and some fabrication to the front pipe, shave off the twin turbo plate, and cutting the frame off the bonnet where the timing cover hits

Engineering and gaining a Mod approval with emmisions testing for this could get very very expensive

If you search the forced induction thread you will find this topic has been extensively covered

Best of luck mate !

[syfon]

Holy crap, $23k for that motor? Wow....

[GTS-t VSPEC]

Holy crap, $23k for that motor? Wow....

It's a long motor, so comes with all the bits, so it's not really that bad. I still don't think the N1 blocks are worth the extra $$$ IMHO.

[SKYRYAN]

I believe they've stopped producing the N1 block also?

This would push the cost of them up significantly I would think. Correct me if I'm wrong

[MLCrisis]

There are things you can do to minimise the potential for a spun bearing, without taking the engine out for the more definitive upgrades. The basic approach is to overfill the engine oil by about 1litre and fit an oil catch can that drains back into the sump.

Once you commit to taking the engine out, then you can fit an extended sump with baffle kit, head drain (which also drains back to the sump) and an uprated oil pump (N1, Tomei, Jun, etc). You can do this without stripping the head off the engine. These all deal effectively with the problem of oil accumulation in the head causing starvation of the bottom end.

If you commit to stripping the engine down, you can also fit the 50 cent Tomei oil restrictor, which prevents the oil accumulation in the head in the first place.

So three levels of what you can do. Just don't assume it is going to fail and you need to build a spare! Spend your money wisely and you can minimise the probability of it happening!! If you are going to regularly track the car, you really need a sump extension and baffle kit, oil catch can plus oil pump upgrade anyway.

I have had the middle level done to my engine at Garage 101 and am very happy with it. My knowledge of these things is that of the enthusiastic amateur, so don't take my word for it. Speak to a few people, such as Danny at Garage 101, or Steve (who was looking at this thread - Hi, Steve!).

Cheers.

[N I B]

RB30 is a better block.

[gazza750]

Really depends what parts you put into it

Any headwork? a built rb26 would be the cheapest be around the 8-10k mark

N1 is a 24U block which has higher nickel content i think....

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=1&featured

3k ontop of the rebuilt rb26

rb30 into a GTR would need an adapter plate

and some fabrication to the front pipe, shave off the twin turbo plate, and cutting the frame off the bonnet where the timing cover hits

Engineering and gaining a Mod approval with emmisions testing for this could get very very expensive

If you search the forced induction thread you will find this topic has been extensively covered

Best of luck mate !

8 k will do just the bottom end well thats what mine is costing @ garage 101

Edited October 28, 2009 by gazza750

[bubba]

RB30 is a better block.

SPOOL ENGINE REBUILD KIT SUIT:

RB30DET, RB30ET, RB26DETT, RB25DET, RB20DET - $2450

Spool Forged H beam Conrods

CP Forged Pistons ( Rings, Pins and Locks Included )

Cometic MLS Headgasket

ACL Race Series Big End Bearings

ACL Race Series Main Bearings

http://www.spoolimports.com/content/SPOOLSPECIALS.asp

Then you still need stuff like oil pump and crank collar, head drain/vent, machining/balancing, sump baffles, adapter plate, then assembly.

Edited October 28, 2009 by bubba

[marksuxass]

I believe they've stopped producing the N1 block also?

This would push the cost of them up significantly I would think. Correct me if I'm wrong

i work for nissan and prcied up a genuine N1 block the other day, figures where around the $4500 mark, and parts where available from melbourne

[Kaido_RR]

i work for nissan and prcied up a genuine N1 block the other day, figures where around the $4500 mark, and parts where available from melbourne

like above.

N1 block can still be bought brand new from Nissan.

They normally sell for around 150,000yen to 200,000 yen on yahoo auction. (BRAND NEW)

example:

http://page4.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d108631287

However if your looking at a new block why not go the NISMO GT block (2.8L) set you back around 270,000yen brand new from nismo

edit: for the price just jap is selling the long motor n1 i would much rather a nismo long motor

http://page6.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/f87398055

Edited August 16, 2010 by Kaido_RR

[fun123]

Th GT block as such is not a 2.8 litre. The GT engine the block was designed for was a 2.8 litre it has a crank with 4mm extra stroke (Same as the Tomei one but different to the HKS which is a full counter)

The GT Block differs from the N1 in that it has thicker walls in some critical areas.

The N1 has 24U stamped on it.

The GT has RRR-45 stamped on them.

Nissan only ade 200 GT blocks in total ad they are all sold out, they now sell for Y600,000 in Japan from private owners.

Also there are two versions of the N1, the older one has much less Nickel content and is not as strong, you can tell the difference by looking around the water jackets near the top of the cylinder.

I have a new N1 block waiting an engine build up, and I know a guy who has some GT blocks that he would sell.

[Kaido_RR]

Th GT block as such is not a 2.8 litre. The GT engine the block was designed for was a 2.8 litre it has a crank with 4mm extra stroke (Same as the Tomei one but different to the HKS which is a full counter)

The GT Block differs from the N1 in that it has thicker walls in some critical areas.

The N1 has 24U stamped on it.

The GT has RRR-45 stamped on them.

Nissan only ade 200 GT blocks in total ad they are all sold out, they now sell for Y600,000 in Japan from private owners.

Also there are two versions of the N1, the older one has much less Nickel content and is not as strong, you can tell the difference by looking around the water jackets near the top of the cylinder.

I have a new N1 block waiting an engine build up, and I know a guy who has some GT blocks that he would sell.

NISMO GT block (about 2weeks ago) sold for around 280,000yen on yahoo auction so 600,000yen is abit over the top

[Blitz]

NISMO GT block (about 2weeks ago) sold for around 280,000yen on yahoo auction so 600,000yen is abit over the top

No it isn't.

Just because one particular block went cheaply, for whatever reason, that doesn't reset the pricing benchmark.

Nismo GT Block's aren't made any more so they are fetching huge money overseas, and ~600,000yen is around the norm.

[Blitz]

I believe they've stopped producing the N1 block also?

This would push the cost of them up significantly I would think. Correct me if I'm wrong

Nissan still sells the blocks, just not the assembled N1 long engines

[fun123]

Nissan still sells the blocks, just not the assembled N1 long engines

They sell N1 blocks - yes, but the GT is not available, if someone an prove hey are and show me where I ill buy one.

Y600,000 on Yahoo is the asking price, I have never sen one sell for Y280,000, please provide a link to the auction.

If someone is after the ultimate engine, there was a HKS HIdeck block for sale recently (with step3 crank, pistons and rods), only 20 ever made. This is the same block as HKS and heat treatments use for their drag engines, these are the fastest skylines in the world.

[fun123]

They sell N1 blocks - yes, but the GT is not available, if someone an prove hey are and show me where I ill buy one.

Y600,000 on Yahoo is the asking price, I have never sen one sell for Y280,000, please provide a link to the auction.

If someone is after the ultimate engine, there was a HKS HIdeck block for sale recently (with step3 crank, pistons and rods), only 20 ever made. This is the same block as HKS and heat treatments use for their drag engines, these are the fastest skylines in the world.

Here is a link to a photo of a Hi-deck engine that endless-r destroyed

http://endless-r-tuning.blogspot.com/2008_12_07_archive.html

The conrod is really long so that under extreme boost and power levels it is less deflected andless likely to puch itself outside the vblock.

The spacer plate on top is water cooled and the block is cement filled. The spacer plate does the job of getting all the heat out of the upper area of the piston. (very little heat travels down the skirt compared to the top anyway) Lower heat can bve dealt with by more oil capacity and a large oil cooler. With this setup can run all day long n the dyno

[fun123]

Here is a link to a photo of a Hi-deck engine that endless-r destroyed

http://endless-r-tuning.blogspot.com/2008_12_07_archive.html

The conrod is really long so that under extreme boost and power levels it is less deflected andless likely to puch itself outside the vblock.

The spacer plate on top is water cooled and the block is cement filled. The spacer plate does the job of getting all the heat out of the upper area of the piston. (very little heat travels down the skirt compared to the top anyway) Lower heat can bve dealt with by more oil capacity and a large oil cooler. With this setup can run all day long n the dyno

http://www.draganddrift.com/photos_img.php?img=393

A better pic