Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

I've noticed my Rb26 (R33) slowly looses oil over a period of time.

I've done two oil changes so far since i've had the engine and had to top up about 3/4 to 1 quart over the 4000km i run the oil for.

The first time i used Redline 20w50 and thought it was just probably the oil so i tried Schaeffer 20w50 but same result.

There are no oil leaks anywhere and when i opened the catch can after the two the oil changes there was only just enough oil just to cover the bottom(greddy)..... just a few drops really.

Compression reads: 172 / 175 / 173 / 170 / 156 / 160.

There is no smoke on start up, and my friend who was driving behind me says there is only some black smoke for a few seconds when i floor it.... no blue smoke.

It is running really rich because it has a little soot on the back and pops every now and again when a let go.... stock ecu running 12psi

Other wise car pulls really good

Where does my oil go???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293879-disappearing-oil/
Share on other sites

Check your cam cover gaskets. Notorious as shit on any skyline of its age. I'm forever replacing them for customers that lose around half-1 litre of oil every 5000km.

And it won't be your oil control rings, all they do is drag oil up the bore. Even if you were referring to the second ring it wouldn't be that unless it was blowing smoke, which he said it wasn't.

The only reason why I'm repeating it is because when you are losing oil...and you know you have a leak somewhere....no matter how big or small, fix the leak first, then ask the question.

It's common sense. It's also at the top of the engine so it's the best place to start considering the oil will move in a downward direction.

Here's a picture of a GTST with a normal leak from the rocker cover gasket.

post-10554-1257283807_thumb.jpg

It was also leaking from the front corners behind the top timing cover backing plate and leaking from the half moon seals at the back and leaking down on top of the gearbox.

This one appeared not too bad from the top. It wasn't until looking from underneath that you will see where it is coming from.

My 32GTR is daily driven about 110km each day of the week and I don't lose oil like you are stating. I had the rocker cover leak at one point but just tighten the screws up regularly now and don't see the issue anymore. But it is apparently a common thing for the rocker covers to work lose.

Nissan says the standard is 170 psi with a variance of 14 psi across cyl so the lower numbers (156,160) is what i would actually expect for an engine with this kind of mileage .....water pump,timing belt,tensioner etc. has already been changed in Jap.

Its the higher numbers that has me baffled bc i tested a next 26 with a genuine 25k on the clock using the same gauge and all cyl were between 162-170

Nissan says the standard is 170 psi with a variance of 14 psi across cyl so the lower numbers (156,160) is what i would actually expect for an engine with this kind of mileage .....water pump,timing belt,tensioner etc. has already been changed in Jap.

Its the higher numbers that has me baffled bc i tested a next 26 with a genuine 25k on the clock using the same gauge and all cyl were between 162-170

Did you have a jump pack connected, throttle fully open and all spark plugs out for the compression test?

If not, then the results don't mean anything as they will most likely be a few psi off...usually under

I have never had to top up oil on any of my RB26s and i've had a fair few, from stock 1989 engine to brand new N1 Nur motors to built motors and none of them used oil between changes. granted my changes tend to be fairly quick as most got some track use and get fresh oil then, but they always gave back out pretty much what was put in. there is definitely something wrong happening. in normally healthy state RB26s do not burn or loose oil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...