Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

I've noticed my Rb26 (R33) slowly looses oil over a period of time.

I've done two oil changes so far since i've had the engine and had to top up about 3/4 to 1 quart over the 4000km i run the oil for.

The first time i used Redline 20w50 and thought it was just probably the oil so i tried Schaeffer 20w50 but same result.

There are no oil leaks anywhere and when i opened the catch can after the two the oil changes there was only just enough oil just to cover the bottom(greddy)..... just a few drops really.

Compression reads: 172 / 175 / 173 / 170 / 156 / 160.

There is no smoke on start up, and my friend who was driving behind me says there is only some black smoke for a few seconds when i floor it.... no blue smoke.

It is running really rich because it has a little soot on the back and pops every now and again when a let go.... stock ecu running 12psi

Other wise car pulls really good

Where does my oil go???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293879-disappearing-oil/
Share on other sites

Check your cam cover gaskets. Notorious as shit on any skyline of its age. I'm forever replacing them for customers that lose around half-1 litre of oil every 5000km.

And it won't be your oil control rings, all they do is drag oil up the bore. Even if you were referring to the second ring it wouldn't be that unless it was blowing smoke, which he said it wasn't.

The only reason why I'm repeating it is because when you are losing oil...and you know you have a leak somewhere....no matter how big or small, fix the leak first, then ask the question.

It's common sense. It's also at the top of the engine so it's the best place to start considering the oil will move in a downward direction.

Here's a picture of a GTST with a normal leak from the rocker cover gasket.

post-10554-1257283807_thumb.jpg

It was also leaking from the front corners behind the top timing cover backing plate and leaking from the half moon seals at the back and leaking down on top of the gearbox.

This one appeared not too bad from the top. It wasn't until looking from underneath that you will see where it is coming from.

My 32GTR is daily driven about 110km each day of the week and I don't lose oil like you are stating. I had the rocker cover leak at one point but just tighten the screws up regularly now and don't see the issue anymore. But it is apparently a common thing for the rocker covers to work lose.

Nissan says the standard is 170 psi with a variance of 14 psi across cyl so the lower numbers (156,160) is what i would actually expect for an engine with this kind of mileage .....water pump,timing belt,tensioner etc. has already been changed in Jap.

Its the higher numbers that has me baffled bc i tested a next 26 with a genuine 25k on the clock using the same gauge and all cyl were between 162-170

Nissan says the standard is 170 psi with a variance of 14 psi across cyl so the lower numbers (156,160) is what i would actually expect for an engine with this kind of mileage .....water pump,timing belt,tensioner etc. has already been changed in Jap.

Its the higher numbers that has me baffled bc i tested a next 26 with a genuine 25k on the clock using the same gauge and all cyl were between 162-170

Did you have a jump pack connected, throttle fully open and all spark plugs out for the compression test?

If not, then the results don't mean anything as they will most likely be a few psi off...usually under

I have never had to top up oil on any of my RB26s and i've had a fair few, from stock 1989 engine to brand new N1 Nur motors to built motors and none of them used oil between changes. granted my changes tend to be fairly quick as most got some track use and get fresh oil then, but they always gave back out pretty much what was put in. there is definitely something wrong happening. in normally healthy state RB26s do not burn or loose oil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
×
×
  • Create New...