Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All shops are very different, I know of a car thats been well set up for 7 years,Needed a bit of a tune so he went to a well knowen shop for a tune only to be told his ECU was no good even tho it had been for so long. He was sold a new ECU and the drive away price was over $7000.

The guy drove down the road and ran out of fuel,Got some more and told the tuner the car ran badly and had run out of fuel only to be told his car was not tune as it had no Fuel. 7K drive away with no tune and no fuel is rough and worse still he now finds he has no other tuner options.

Make sure you know what you are getting before you leave your cars anywhere.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294329-dyno-tune/#findComment-4911027
Share on other sites

I got my car tuned on Friday. It cost me $880 to get a Nistune ecu and tuned. One set fee I've heard. But that was for a rb20det using my ecu. Not sure wat u got.

It was pretty exciting hearing and seeing my car on the dyno. And good results to.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294329-dyno-tune/#findComment-4911275
Share on other sites

Im in the same boat with ya drift4, so can i get this straight. they replace your old ECU with a new one (powerFC??), then they remap your air fuel ratios n stuff on the dyno? or do they upload/tweak your existing ECU on the dyno?

I know, i should be shot :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294329-dyno-tune/#findComment-4911806
Share on other sites

how long's a piece of string? all depends on how well ur car is prepared, best case scenario ur car is functioning perfectly and a tune can only take an hour or 2, but if there are any issues ul have to factor in diagnosis time, parts, time taken to rectify problem etc. my car took half hour on the dyno cos it was well prepared etc, whereas i saw a v6t gemini on the dybno for 2 days cos it was just slapped together

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294329-dyno-tune/#findComment-4912402
Share on other sites

dont get emanage..

emanage = fail

so you have run emange ecu's in your car ????

what didn't u like, a bit more reason than fail might help a few people out, the only reason around seems to be with tuners, not the ecu, most tuners don't know the software, so won't touch

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294329-dyno-tune/#findComment-4913087
Share on other sites

does anyone know if you can re-tune a tommy kaira ecu?

I have opened it up and it has a chip solderd in there...

If i was to want to up my power would i need this nistune and z32 afm or pfc or can it be done on my tk chip?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294329-dyno-tune/#findComment-4914992
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...