Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

Starting a 30 build, and just doing a plan of what i need, and what needs to be done. Done i lot of research, but a few things a little unclear to me.

Im trying to do it on a tight budget, so its a stock 30e block, standard crank, rods and pistons. New rings and bearings. Using a R32 25DE head. The car will be running reasonably low power (200-250kw). Street driven, rev limited at 7000rpm. Will spend a fair bit of time tapping the redline.

What i need to know, is if anyone has a decent size pic of the water and oil feed/drains on the exh side of the RB30 block (just to be sure which ones im using).

Where does one get the restrictors for the oil from, and what size should i run? Do i even need to change them?

People always talk about changing the oil pump to 25DET or 26DETT pumps, but can you happily use a standard 30 pump? or even a 20DE or DET pump? I dont want to sleeve the crank, as is needed with the R33 26 or 25 pumps.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294414-questions-about-my-rb30-build/
Share on other sites

So far, I'm running the factory RB30E pump on mine... I'm having issues with too much oil up top... Have to redo the oil pressure guage, so can't tell you about it, but I know on the track I've got plenty of oil up top.

On my car i drain the water from the turbo around the front of the engine where the gtr's do as stock. Otherwise you end up draining hot water back into the block which isnt a hugely smart idea.

This here gives you a good idea. 30e pump will be fine but id sleeve it just to be sure. Its 150 bucks so why not.

I got my Tomei restrictor from nengun.com but i think you can find them on trademe now. If not go into an engine reconditioner and ask them to make you one with a 0.5mm hole. Block the front and put this one in the rear (or other way round, check this out).

post-21312-1257064967_thumb.jpg

Edited by SirRacer

i planned to only re ring the standard pistons as well but most rb30s are around 20 years old and may have some wear and may need to be bored with over size pistons anyway, its also a good idea to have the crank looked at, so while they are there you should get the oil pump drive extended. it sort of snow balls once you start. i did all of the assemdling work myself, got mahale 1mm oversize pistons new bearings, crank got machined down .25, new nismo oil pump and gaskits and seals and it set me back around 4500, remember a cheap man builds his engine twice. good luck with the build,

Cheers for the advice guys.

Had another look at the block again today. Does anyone have a pic of the oil restrictors? Im pretty sure im looking at the right ones... but when i measured them they came out to have 1.3mm holes in both of them. I was under the impression that Rb30e was meant to have 2mm holes?

just go down to paykels or similar and get a .9mm or .6mm (depending on what size you want) mig welding tip. they are 6mm outside. Cut a slice off it about 8-10 mm long, clean it up a bit and bash it in with a hammer! :)

Im running stock rb30e bottom end with new rings and bearings, got the block skimmed and honed and new frost plugs and that was it. Been running well. If it blew due to poor assembly or worn parts i would just get another stock bottom end and do it again.

300kw at the wheels on less than 20psi, plenty of power for the price

Cheers for the advice guys.

Had another look at the block again today. Does anyone have a pic of the oil restrictors? Im pretty sure im looking at the right ones... but when i measured them they came out to have 1.3mm holes in both of them. I was under the impression that Rb30e was meant to have 2mm holes?

anyone have any answers to why this is? Would i be fine to just leave those restrictors alone and run them?

Im still after a pic of the restrictors if anyone has one, just to be sure i have the right ones.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...