Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Im having a few dramas with the ca18det in my 180sx, I havnt yet had it fully examined but in the case of it requiring a rebuild im thinking il just do an engine conversion.

I was having a look through the for sale section and it seems the great majority of packages for sale have already been picked to bits.

So my questions are these...

1. Does anyone have a package for sale for a conversion, im looking at preferably an RB25det, alternatively an RB20det or an SR20.

2. Has anyone been down this path and have any advice or knowledge to share ie problems/hassles i may encounter, pricing, things to look out for?

Thanks for any help you can offer guys and girls

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294836-engine-conversion-for-a-180sx/
Share on other sites

I used to have a 180 with an sr20det the engine itself sounds a bit agricultural but the mid range torque is ALOT better than the rb25.

Im talking standard (exhaust, podfilter) if you plan on leaving it standard a skyline will take you up top i dont care what the rest of the people say its almost line ball to about 85 to 90 then the skylines strong top end runs away i think the sr20 perfectly suits the 180 and sylvia.dont bother with the rb20 if youre planing on doing a conversion powerwise they are about the same i think the sr20 has more torque standard.

Also i hear once you put coilovers on a 180 the font end can tend to be a bit bouncy on uneven surfaces and having an rb20 or 25 because of the extra weight settles the front end a bit but you will have to have someone who has done the conversion to confirm this,but this too has its draw backs more weight over the front wheels it will also upset the balance nissan chose to endow the 180 with.

And i know it sounds stupid but have a look at prices to modify an sr less cylinders=less coil packs when or if you chose to modify i also found extractors where cheaper and even just for maintenance sparkplugs

but like with all things drive a 180 with an rb20-25 if you can and one with an sr and make youre choice YOU are spending youre hard earned dollars so you might as well make yourself happy not what people who dont know you think

I used to have a 180 with an sr20det the engine itself sounds a bit agricultural but the mid range torque is ALOT better than the rb25.

Im talking standard (exhaust, podfilter) if you plan on leaving it standard a skyline will take you up top i dont care what the rest of the people say its almost line ball to about 85 to 90 then the skylines strong top end runs away i think the sr20 perfectly suits the 180 and sylvia.dont bother with the rb20 if youre planing on doing a conversion powerwise they are about the same i think the sr20 has more torque standard.

Also i hear once you put coilovers on a 180 the font end can tend to be a bit bouncy on uneven surfaces and having an rb20 or 25 because of the extra weight settles the front end a bit but you will have to have someone who has done the conversion to confirm this,but this too has its draw backs more weight over the front wheels it will also upset the balance nissan chose to endow the 180 with.

And i know it sounds stupid but have a look at prices to modify an sr less cylinders=less coil packs when or if you chose to modify i also found extractors where cheaper and even just for maintenance sparkplugs

but like with all things drive a 180 with an rb20-25 if you can and one with an sr and make youre choice YOU are spending youre hard earned dollars so you might as well make yourself happy not what people who dont know you think

Thanks for the advice mate much appreceated.

I've had an rb20 before and so I know they're not the best engine in the world!

I had the same thought about the sr myself, they're definately a better option but dam they sound like a power of crap, I'm not so interested in going all out in the power area, iv been there and done that and nowdays im just after something with a little poke and a little bit of fun, the car is pretty much used as a daily too and from my horrible job, a little something to entertain me as i drive towards and from the horror that is work haha

Ive driven RB25 and RB20 S13's.

My latest track car is running a Rb20. As you would know they have a bit of lag.

The RB25 S13 was an awesome car to drive, Just make sure you set up your suspension accordingly for the increased weight up front.

SR is easier for the fact the motor was intended to be installed in that chassis.

RB's are prone to cooling issues in S13's if the cooling system isnt set up correcly.

Saying all that i dont dislike CA18's either.

My last CA made 220rwkw and never missed a bet.

Ive driven RB25 and RB20 S13's.

My latest track car is running a Rb20. As you would know they have a bit of lag.

The RB25 S13 was an awesome car to drive, Just make sure you set up your suspension accordingly for the increased weight up front.

SR is easier for the fact the motor was intended to be installed in that chassis.

RB's are prone to cooling issues in S13's if the cooling system isnt set up correcly.

Saying all that i dont dislike CA18's either.

My last CA made 220rwkw and never missed a bet.

Yeah the rb20 does run a little lag but dam they sound amazing! I am looking for something responsive tho as im not really a speeder, just love to get there fast, hence the love of the ca right now!

I have the suspension to change up the front end no troubles at all but i do still worry a little about the weight change, although i do have upgraded brakes i hear they tend to lock a little easier with the change

Hahaha you goose, it'd be like a front heavy guided missile! Worst engine and car combo ever, i have no idea what nissan was thinking all the way back in 88

it wud be wise to rethink that statement as he said VQ30DET, not VG30DET. the VQ30DET weighs the same as a sr20det as it is all alloy, but has the same power as a rb26 from stock( or bout there, it a 3l turbo ! )

these engines are a bit rare tho, will have to import if u want a rwd from a late model cima. theres one for sale in da parts section tho

Yeah the rb20 does run a little lag but dam they sound amazing! I am looking for something responsive tho as im not really a speeder, just love to get there fast, hence the love of the ca right now!

I have the suspension to change up the front end no troubles at all but i do still worry a little about the weight change, although i do have upgraded brakes i hear they tend to lock a little easier with the change

Its all down to personal feel.

If you want something thats easy to do stick with the CA and forge it. They can make 250rwkw with the right choice of mods.

The SR isnt going to be hard either.

RB25 would be my choice, but i love the feel of the RB.

They do lock a little easier.

Really it comes down to what you want the car for.

it wud be wise to rethink that statement as he said VQ30DET, not VG30DET. the VQ30DET weighs the same as a sr20det as it is all alloy, but has the same power as a rb26 from stock( or bout there, it a 3l turbo ! )

Is it the same weight? The SR is all-alloy too, but it is a physically smaller unit. As a total package, a 2.0L engine is going to need less cooling than a 3.0L one so I'd have thought the weight would have tipped in the SR's favour.

I'd imagine that an all-alloy VQ would weigh less than a cast iron RB though. If people think the RB is a valid replacement despite the weight penalty, the VQ should definitely be considered.

The shorter block gives more room for cooling in front, and the VQ is a pretty nice motor in terms of how it delivers power.

Edited by scathing

Sr20's are pretty pricey but worth it IMO for a 4cyl theyre pretty gutsy when modded. A mate of mine recently picked up a bare Rb25 motor for 500 bucks with only 90ks on it...

Whatever floats your boat really.... 4 cyl, 6cyl or 8 lol and your price range

Are you planning on modifying the car further or just stop at the engine swap?

My last CA made 220rwkw and never missed a bet.

Bit of a punter was she? ;)

Edited by Silvia GTR
it wud be wise to rethink that statement as he said VQ30DET, not VG30DET. the VQ30DET weighs the same as a sr20det as it is all alloy, but has the same power as a rb26 from stock( or bout there, it a 3l turbo ! )

these engines are a bit rare tho, will have to import if u want a rwd from a late model cima. theres one for sale in da parts section tho

Ah my bad, I immidiately thought VG without thinking, i dont know a great deal about the VQ

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ne...&hl=VQ30DET

I'd grab it if I could afford it, assuming it's in good nick.

Perfect engine for a silvia, no doubt if nissan went down the S platform again it would be V6.

That VQ that is for sale is a bloody bargain!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ne...&hl=VQ30DET

I'd grab it if I could afford it, assuming it's in good nick.

Perfect engine for a silvia, no doubt if nissan went down the S platform again it would be V6.

Hell no and no! A high powered 4 banger is what made the S chassis if they do it a again it will be a SR20VET or something like that

Have a look at this month's Fast Fours. OVRLRD has a SR20VET in it, and it makes a shedload of power. We can only hope an S16 would have that kind of donk.

Chances are with the Renault connection, though, if we did get another Silvia it'd have the Renault turbo I4. Which isn't that bad, considering how quick the Megane R26.R is.

I agree, I totally love the SR20VET and would import a X-trail GT in a flash if they were eligible :(. Alas 2 things strike me, firstly that such an excellent engine as this only appears to be applied in one car and an odd one at that for such an engine and secondly that all performance cars to come from Nissan have been V6 since the end of S15/R34. Still I like you hope for an I4 S platform in the future :bunny:, just that aside from VET options, the VQ engines totally out perform.

I agree also, its a shame about the x trail getting that lovely performance motor. My future plans will involve a VQ in a R32 or S15 as they are a very solid 3lt!!

Depending on your budget and power goals, you could even consider getting a VQ35DE out of a V35/Z33 and turbocharging that.

The "206kW" engine will deliver 280rwkW reliably with stock NA internals on most available TT kits, which will give you a shedload of response and a usable amount of power.

There's no replacement for displacement. :D

  • 8 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...