Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i got a r33 gtst [rb 25det]. i bought this couple of months a go. since that day, i install a aftermarket intercooler and change the timing belt as wel as spark plugs gap to 0.8 mm . from last 2 week when i brake the car suddenly [coluor lights etc] car revs down 0 and go up 8000-1000 [cant explain exacly...] and car stall. i can feel some thing cuts off. when i start again it will starts no probms.

i allready cleand the AAC valve, AFM as well.

somebody can help me to sort this out is highly appreciate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295331-car-stall-when-braking/
Share on other sites

My car is doing the same thing, since I cleaned my afm and replaced the intake pipe. Its definitely running lean off throttle causing the occasional stall.

Have you tried resetting the ecu? Make sure all the hoses are connected, like PCV as this will affect idle too.

Does the pedal sink all the way towards the firewall when it stalls, or does it stay consistant? Might be worth looking through the workshop manual, even the R32 one in the Brake diagnostic section.

Does the pedal sink all the way towards the firewall when it stalls, or does it stay consistant? Might be worth looking through the workshop manual, even the R32 one in the Brake diagnostic section.

i cant find brake diagnoistic system. do u have a one with u..?

Does the pedal sink all the way towards the firewall when it stalls, or does it stay consistant? Might be worth looking through the workshop manual, even the R32 one in the Brake diagnostic section.

i cant find brake diagnoistic system. do u have a one with u..?

if it only does it when you press the brake pedal then it is going to be in the brake booster. if it does it when you lift off and don't touch the brakes then it isn't the brake booster.

the brake booster has a vaccum line going to it to give you better braking. if the line is damaged or the diaphram in the booster is damage then when you push the brake pedal you are altering how much air the engine is getting and making it stall

  • 1 month later...

Guys,

Thanks all ur replyes. i have sort the problum. it was my automatic transmission transmission. i was run the car with very LOW FLUID LEVEL. that was the prob. if u got a same prob with auto car. check the trans fluid. and the same time u can see the engine light is on ur dash that is ur TCC - [Touque Convert Cluth] solonoide. no doubt

thanks again

if it only does it when you press the brake pedal then it is going to be in the brake booster. if it does it when you lift off and don't touch the brakes then it isn't the brake booster.

the brake booster has a vaccum line going to it to give you better braking. if the line is damaged or the diaphram in the booster is damage then when you push the brake pedal you are altering how much air the engine is getting and making it stall

Guys,

Thanks all ur replyes. i have sort the problum. it was my automatic transmission transmission. i was run the car with very LOW FLUID LEVEL. that was the prob. if u got a same prob with auto car. check the trans fluid. and the same time u can see the engine light is on ur dash that is ur TCC - [Touque Convert Cluth] solonoide. no doubt

thanks again

hey i got the same problem... can you tell me where the transmission fluid container is located??

i'm not sure if they have a seperate resevior or not. generally most cars will just store all the fluid in the gearbox and you simply pull out the dipstick for the gearbox and tip it in there. it's been a while since i had to top up an auto gearbox so i'm not 100% sure on that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...