Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Sold some of the parts off my ceffy but more still need to go! The whole car is also for sale with heaps of stuff still on it for a bargain price. Much cheaper for the mods than others at the moment!! (see bottom of the thread)

********************

Trust 10 Row oil cooler (Painted black for stealth) - With braided lines and

sandwich plate / thermostat = $500

Trust1.JPG

Trust2.JPG

Defi Din gauges - Almost brand new, used for about 3 months (Oil Temp, Pressure,

Water Temp), comes will all sensors (oil pressure never used) wires etc = $550

Pics:

Din2.JPG

Work Emotion Kai 17 x 9 +17 all round - Slight gutter rash on a couple of the

rims but hardly noticable on the car - Falken 452's on the front and BRAND NEW cheapies on the rear = $1800 with tires,

$1620 without

Pics:

wheel1.JPG

wheel2.JPG

wheel3.JPG

wheel4.JPG

********************

Nissan Cefiro

= $10,000 WITH the above parts and below mods

= $9,500 WITH the above parts, stock turbo not fitted and below mods

= $8,500 WITHOUT the above parts and with below mods

I have created 3 pricing levels for people to choose how they want the car. I will drop $500 off the price if someone wants

to take it without me having to fit the stock turbo and manifold because I am short on time.

The car has rego until Feb and still has an extensive list of mods. Would make a perfect streeter.

Here are the details, please contact me for more information on the car:

EXTERIOR:

CA31 Chassis - July 1989 Build

Manual conversion

M-Sports 30mm Flared & Vented Front Fenders - Genuine

Rear Guards Flared by 20mm

Full Respray in factory Diamond Black

Factory Sunroof

Late Model Tail Lights

Kaixon 6000k HID Headlight Kit

Legal Tint with Front Banner

ENGINE:

RB20DET

Stock turbo

Xtreme Chrome Moly 5.5kg Flywheel

Xtreme 9 Puck 25% Over Standard Clutch

SplitFire Coil Pack Kit

R32 GTR Coilpack Loom

No exhaust currently fitted.

East Bear GTR Cooler Kit & Piping

Custom Stainless Intake Cross Pipe (By C-red Tuning)

R33 GTR VSpec Intercooler (painted black)

Trust 10 Row Oil Cooler w/ Braided Lines & Spin on Adaptor (painted black)

Bosch O40 Fuel Pump with Source Power direct from Battery

New rocker cover gasket (2000ks old)

Nissan Steel Exhaust Header Gasket w/ new Nissan Studs and Brass Nuts

Quality Blue Silicon Used on all joins and bends

Silicon Vacuum Hoses

Silicon Radiator Hoses

Razor Grounding Kit

Oil Catch Can

Retuned Standard ECU - Socketed ROM (in Japan)

DRIVETRAIN:

2-Way Mechanical Diff (Nice and quiet)

Gearbox Had 6 Bearings Replaced (Synchros are crunchy which 'may' be caused by slave cylinders not opening fully)

R32 Half Shafts installed

HPI Braided Clutch Line

Brand New Speedo Cable

UNDERNEATH:

Tein HA Coilovers (Purchased brand new in 04, 35,000km old now with no leaks or clunks)

Tein Castor Rods

Castor Rod Mount Brace

Cusco Front Strut Brace

Adjustable Traction Rods in Rear

Adjustable Upper Arms in Rear

HICAS Lock Back

Drift Pineapples on Rear Cradle

Work Emotion Kai 17 x 9 +17 all round

Brand new Falken 452 on the front and brand new tires on rear (215's all round)

Full 5 Stud Conversion, R32 Rear & Custom Billet Front Hubs

New rotors and pads all round (2000 ks old)

20mm 5 Stud Bolt on Hub Centric Spacers on Front

Z32 4 Pot Brakes & R32 2 Pot Rears in Red (replaced Rear Brake Lines)

S14 Steering Rack & Custom Power Steering Lines

INTERIOR:

Sexual dash mat (extremely rare!)

HKS EVC3 Boost Controller

Greddy Boost Guage

Nardi Turino Steering Wheel

Standard drivers seat

Stock S13 (Passenger)

Razo Gearknob

Pioneer MP3 Head Unit

Pioneer 6" Splits

PICS:

IMG_0096.JPG

IMG_0098.JPG

IMG_0099.JPG

garage.JPG

Parts and car are located in Diamond Creek (NE Melb suburbs).

Contact me on 0412 033 449.

Thanks.

Edited by konect

hey mate not trying to be rude in the first photo of ur rims is that gutter rash that covers nearly half the edge of the rim? how much would it cost to post to bris? and theres a substantial amount of gutter rash on all four rims would u go any lower on the price with no tyres?

thanks

hey mate not trying to be rude in the first photo of ur rims is that gutter rash that covers nearly half the edge of the rim? how much would it cost to post to bris? and theres a substantial amount of gutter rash on all four rims would u go any lower on the price with no tyres?

thanks

That's cool. Yeh there is a fair bit of rash on them.

Wont go any lower on the price or I might as well keep them. The rims themselves are perfect otherwise...just belonged to someone that couldn't drive :banana:

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...