Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so here is my story.

Started my car, sound system was on low volume. Started driving and put up the volume and noticed the speakers where cracking/distorting, had no clue what could be wrong since everything was fine the day before.

Checked my amps, nothing seemed out of ordinary, checked setting on the head unit and everything was the same. Pulled out the head unit to find one of my RCA's where broken..no brainer here, I found the problem right? Went out to buy new RCA leads, plugged them straight in and it continued to make the same distortion.

So now it gets tricky and I ask myself is it my amp? I called my mate over and we plugged the RCA's into his amps so his speakers would be getting the signals from my head unit. Distortion continues to through his speakers. Now it has to be the head unit sending out crappy signals? I plugged in a whole new deck and the distortions still continued!

Sound systems can really do your head in sometimes lol but yes any help would be appreciated!

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295427-help-with-wierd-distortion/
Share on other sites

try to plug a ipod or something into the RCA instead of your radio as a source unit on your car ? does it still do it ?

no or yes ?

No , prob a rooted radio , or shorted wire on Radio to ground if one of the speaker wires is hitting ground the resistance skyrockets and the preamp cant deal with the load and distorts bad.

try wiggling the radio around on low volume, does it do it still ? crackle ? spark ?

Yes

then the amp or signal RCA is stuffed , RCA pinched under seat bolts is common

what brand of radio is it ?

your not using a factory high power to RCA converter are you ?

The amp is a Soundstream Lil Wonder, so its new and it is a pretty good amp. The radio is a Sony Xplod unit, it is pretty old but I also put in a Pioneer deck which caused the same sounds.

I will give the ipod a go and see what happens.

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

what about interference with elec.. in the wires.. if you've ruled out amp.. speakers.. headunit.. i would be looking into the wires you've run through the car

^

all good points I think , but your description of speaker noises doesnt lend itself to electrical interference ?

cracking and distorting, is normally only on 1 or 2 speakers , when they get punched in/torn or burned coils, etc.(or if you carry crap in your door pockets that rattles)

if all of them do it , its in the signal path

if its more a whine or crackle then its in the RCA ,power/ground path most of the time

if it does it with the car off as well as on then you know its not the charging system , unless the battery is shithouse below 12volts

Soundstream Lil wonders fail, as does any amp

Sony radios fail same as above

you have ruled out the radio already so check the amp power and signal cables ? check the speaker wires on the amp, are they cross shorted on the terminals or pinched under or thru anything ?

who installed it a Pro or self ? have you installed or seviced anything else on the car since it started ?

if all else fails

GO SEE A PRO IN PERSON,, hard to see or hear what kind of issues you have beyond the forum and what was suggested already, hope that helps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...