Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all.

Just completed an engine conversion on a RWD cedric using a 4WD Cedric RB25DET half cut.

I've converted the transmission to RWD by pulling the front driveshaft and blocking up the high pressure line that would normally run to the actuators above the diff. As the half cut did not come with any actuators, ecu, rear end wiring loom or the res for the atessa system, i would have thought the ECU should cope with out it. Now the ABS light is on constantly.

Does anyone know what needs to be shorted/looped or removed in order to have ABS working but ATESSA not? Keep in mind that the original body loom has remained intact and only the engine harness has been replaced.

Another issue is that I have wired up the automatic plugs to the appropriate wires in the vehicle loom according to the half cuts loom. The POWER mode light now flashes occasionally.

The auto box changes from Park - Reverse - Neutral - Drive and all the lights work on the dash, but it does not change gear at all. Put it in Drive and it will act like its stuck in one gear.

Any help would be appreciated. Apart from these 2 issues my conversion is complete and im very happy with its progress.

Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296244-removed-atessa-system-abs-light-on/
Share on other sites

the abs ecu is the attessa ecu aswell...

the solution is in the plug, it has a stitch in it that is closed when unplugged.

so your original car had abs? im not familiar with the cedric and how it is wired..

yes my original car had ABS and all the chassis and ABS loom has not changed. I have simply added the engine, transmission, ECU and loom and adapted the 2 automatic plugs into the chassis loom for the automatic to work properly. The cedric has a VDU like the Series 2 stagea's so when it powers up, the ABS error comes up on the screen as well as the light on the dash.

If the ATESSA ECU is the ABS ECU and i am missing the ATESSA ECU, maybe ABS is actually working but the ATESSA is obviously not causing the error to come up on the screen.

Strange issue and i think i might be the 1st to ever encounter it. ;)

Edited by sbyder
  • 3 weeks later...

Abs ecu will need signals from engine ecu - tacho & speed.

Engine loom should have wires spliced already if abs was fitted in half cut.

Simply match up wires to body loom.

Abs relays (above abs pump) also play up esp if playing in that area.

Also check LH front abs sensor is plugged in - sometimes wires run in engine loom.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...