Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

considering NS isn't a used as it once was. ill re-post my question here to get another angle and probably better responses.

So i finally have enough cash to start looking at the low end of the cars i would want, however still not sure what i should get, even after 9months on the forum. Currently looking into s14 series 1 (ADM models) or r32 skylines gts-t (the later years). a friend owns a near stock type x and the SRs pull well, decent amounts of down low torque while on the other hand, the rb20s have considerably less torque but more top end. considering the way i will be driving the car, its going to have to take a decent amount of limiter bashing (well, at least compared to other cars around the same price range)

while some will say, go drive both cars and find out which car you like better. well, the problem with that is, i still really cant drive a manual (cant learn if you dont own one, neither do my parents), not good enough to take one for a test drive thus have an automatic restriction on my license. i plan to buy the car, learn and resit the test and no, i dont have to worry about bs turbo restrictions. i have driven a friends r32 however, it wasnt very stock, had considerably more power then stock plus different turbo so different response.

what would you do? remember the car will be a daily and probably will see the track in the future plus, the hills.

Edited by Peter89
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296273-which-car/
Share on other sites

i had a s13 and have been in a 32. i would go the s14 for sure. just get rid of the stock turbo and find a BB unit of a JDM s15 (i'm pretty sure they are a bigger turbo) and wind the boost up to 15psi and you will be laughing.

other suggestion i would make is a r33. they are cheaper than r32's and go much better. buttloads more torque, more power everywhere actually. and better as a daily driver than the 32 due to smoother power. performance wise a 33 with a few mods (such as boost at 12psi, and the usual mods such as exhaust and cooler) and a silvia at 15psi (with similar mods to the 33) will be pretty close, but both will be quicker than a 32 with the same mods. even with the stock turbo @ 15psi the s14 will still beat the r32

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296273-which-car/#findComment-4936976
Share on other sites

33 isnt an option on his power/weight laws.

SR S13/180 isnt either.

I still say R32, the way you drive, SR will POP, RB20 wont as easily, and it wont spend enough time under 4k to notice the lack of low down, and the S13 you spend a lot of time in accentuates the boost transition compared to an S14 with the VCT(S13 noticable, S14 smooth) where an RB20 just smoothly revs out, which makes it feel like it has more down low than it does., that stock s14 was gutless, smooth but meh... catback to finish the exhaust and remap would change that though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296273-which-car/#findComment-4937016
Share on other sites

Hey Peter!

I like both cars you mentioned,

As for a Daily, you'd figure the S14 would be better on fuel with less 2 cylinders... But your buying a performance car, no such thing as fuel economy.

The cars are quite easy to drive in stock form, once modified, its a different story.

For Track, Circuit or Drift? R32 would have more top end and I find the Silvia's are more tail happy for drift. They both can do the job, just depends on how you set the cars up.

In the mean time, learn to drive a manual, last thing is you want to stall it after giving the car full stick.

BTW your Roman's friend yeah..? I think I met ya at Campbellfield after the big Skyline cruise.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296273-which-car/#findComment-4938855
Share on other sites

Currently looking into s14 series 1 (ADM models) or r32 skylines gts-t (the later years).

its going to have to take a decent amount of limiter bashing (well, at least compared to other cars around the same price range)

what would you do? remember the car will be a daily and probably will see the track in the future plus, the hills.

The RB's cast iron block will take more abuse than the SR's alloy one. But the SR is a nicer motor if you're sticking to 2.0L and you're not going to hammer it all the time.

If its a daily and not a track-only car I'd get an SR powered vehicle. You won't be hammering it that hard on the street, hopefully, and that's where it will spend the majority of its time.

i still really cant drive a manual (cant learn if you dont own one, neither do my parents)

Go rent one. If you're going to burn out a clutch, burn out someone else's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296273-which-car/#findComment-4938884
Share on other sites

The RB's cast iron block will take more abuse than the SR's alloy one. But the SR is a nicer motor if you're sticking to 2.0L and you're not going to hammer it all the time.

If its a daily and not a track-only car I'd get an SR powered vehicle. You won't be hammering it that hard on the street, hopefully, and that's where it will spend the majority of its time.

Go rent one. If you're going to burn out a clutch, burn out someone else's.

he's burning out mine haha

my 32 is great on fuel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296273-which-car/#findComment-4939604
Share on other sites

The RB's cast iron block will take more abuse than the SR's alloy one. But the SR is a nicer motor if you're sticking to 2.0L and you're not going to hammer it all the time.

If its a daily and not a track-only car I'd get an SR powered vehicle. You won't be hammering it that hard on the street, hopefully, and that's where it will spend the majority of its time.

Go rent one. If you're going to burn out a clutch, burn out someone else's.

you would think that is a good option, however to rent a car, drive must be 25 and full licensed.

ill learn on the car i buy, spent the last 4 years driving, 2.5 years on P's. should be able to pick it up quickly with daily practice. which is the only thing stopping me currently.

Hey Peter!

I like both cars you mentioned,

As for a Daily, you'd figure the S14 would be better on fuel with less 2 cylinders... But your buying a performance car, no such thing as fuel economy.

The cars are quite easy to drive in stock form, once modified, its a different story.

For Track, Circuit or Drift? R32 would have more top end and I find the Silvia's are more tail happy for drift. They both can do the job, just depends on how you set the cars up.

In the mean time, learn to drive a manual, last thing is you want to stall it after giving the car full stick.

BTW your Roman's friend yeah..? I think I met ya at Campbellfield after the big Skyline cruise.

yeh I am. still stuck as passenger for now however, i cant remember you. that was too long ago, i suck at names and you meet some many people in the car scene, my head hurts :D

i think ill focus more on grip racing in the future. currently leaning towards the skyline, i thrash my current car, considerably slower but yeh, doubt that ll change. with fuel efficiency, anything is better then what i currently drive.

Edited by Peter89
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296273-which-car/#findComment-4940059
Share on other sites

i know r33s are good performance wise, however still on p plate thus illegal plus i would rather a smaller, lighter car. been driving a large car for long enough.

i wouldn't really class the r32 as being much lighter than a 33 as there is only about 40kg in it. and as for smaller, well there is only 3.5cm difference in width between a 32 coupe and a 33 coupe, and 11cm in length. and a s14 is actually 1cm wider than a 33. although they are lighter than both a 32 and 33.

also, when did you get your p's, because i was just looking at the vicroads website and if you got your p's after 1st july 2007 then you can rule out the s14 (unless you go a non-turbo) and just get a r32 4 door (r32 coupe also ruled out) as you can't drive a turbo vehicle with only 2 doors.

this is what i was reading:

Lower perfomance turbocharged or supercharged vehicles

From 6 July 2009, drivers issued with a probationary licence on or after 1 July 2007 may drive some lower performance turbocharged or supercharged vehicles. The definition of a lower performance turbocharged or supercharged vehicle is a vehicle with 6 cylinders or less that is;

* turbocharged or supercharged with a power to weight ratio of less than 100kW per tonne;

* turbocharged or supercharged with a power to weight ratio between 100kW and 125kW per tonne and that is considered to be a family type vehicle (4 seats or more) rather than a sports type vehicle. A family type vehicle is a sedan, station wagon or hatch normally used to carry families/passengers with 4 or more seats and are equipped with child restraint anchorages. A family type vehicle does not include a sports car (two door coupe).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296273-which-car/#findComment-4940830
Share on other sites

you would think that is a good option, however to rent a car, drive must be 25 and full licensed.

ill learn on the car i buy, spent the last 4 years driving, 2.5 years on P's. should be able to pick it up quickly with daily practice. which is the only thing stopping me currently.

yeh I am. still stuck as passenger for now however, i cant remember you. that was too long ago, i suck at names and you meet some many people in the car scene, my head hurts :wave:

i think ill focus more on grip racing in the future. currently leaning towards the skyline, i thrash my current car, considerably slower but yeh, doubt that ll change. with fuel efficiency, anything is better then what i currently drive.

Up / down Hill Grip race ey... Sound good.

Give the AE86 and NS fellas a good run LOL!

Yeah I was the Asian guy driving the Grey R32 GTR and Josef was riding passenger in my car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296273-which-car/#findComment-4940905
Share on other sites

you would think that is a good option, however to rent a car, drive must be 25 and full licensed.

Not entirely true. From the Hertz web site:

Drivers aged 21-24 years may be eligible to rent subject to an age surcharge. Age surcharge is $27.50 per day including GST (Airport Concession Recovery (ACFR) maybe added subject to rental location).

I believe that other companies have similar requirements. You can't rent a really fancy or sporty car unless you're 25, but to score a Corolla or the like can be done pretty early. They may require a full license though.

ill learn on the car i buy, spent the last 4 years driving, 2.5 years on P's.

If you can drive, it shouldn't take too long to pick up.

If worst comes to worst, go to one of those Learner instructors and ask for one lesson in a manual. They'll teach you the basics, then its all just practice.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296273-which-car/#findComment-4941285
Share on other sites

mad082: turbo laws don't affect me. i made sure of that by rushing to get my auto license before the laws came into affect.

ill be on holidays for 3 months, with occasional work, so ill have plenty of time to learn. ill finally have a decent working aircon, will make summer driving more enjoyable.

leaning towards the r32s. going to inspect some this weekend. probably will inspect another s14 and a 180 before i decide.

Edited by Peter89
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296273-which-car/#findComment-4942028
Share on other sites

If you havent decided, I'd have a think again bout the car you're leaning towards.

Just my personal preference though...the R32 GTS-T is starting to look a bit dated.

I'm well aware this is SAU so opinions will be biased but only the R32 GTR looks the part.

You can easily turn the S14 or 180 into a tough and more uptodate looking car with just the right body bits (eg: front lip for an old style 180).

Dont think there's much you can do for the look of an R32 GTS-T even with a body kit. IMO, that bonnet looks horrible.

So for your price range, I'd say:

1990-94 180sx

Lowered

Front lip (SR or CA front bar)

Tough wheels

???

Profit

:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296273-which-car/#findComment-4949976
Share on other sites

styling doesn't really matter for me. the car itself is way more important.

the 180s you are talking about, have 4 stud, small brakes and red top SRs. inferior compared to a s1 s14.

however, still sold on r32s. just hard finding a clean one :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296273-which-car/#findComment-4950887
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...