Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 134
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well it looks like the cam belt came off, engine overheated then went POP! really i'm lucky i pulled over when i did i could of melted a rod or piston or at least something.

If i went a Rb25det what would i need to change?

Well it looks like the cam belt came off, engine overheated then went POP! really i'm lucky i pulled over when i did i could of melted a rod or piston or at least something.

If i went a Rb25det what would i need to change?

Look in the NA section, there's heaps of info there.

But to be honest, I don't reckon rebuilding an NA engine is worth it.

No i don't think so either and i was going to end up dropping RB25DET in the 33

Yeah, you could always sell the other working parts from the DE engine or even some of the running gears that you might replace with the turbo parts, eg brakes, exhaust etc.

Well it looks like the cam belt came off, engine overheated then went POP! really i'm lucky i pulled over when i did i could of melted a rod or piston or at least something.

If i went a Rb25det what would i need to change?

enigne, brakes, computer for engineers

and probably just change the whole rear k frame if you can afford it then you got brakes on rear and a better diff - not sure if you need to change the rears for engineers cert though.

best thing buy a halfcut and strip the shit out of it

Just got off the phone with the mechanic $2.2k for a N/A and has done about 62k

Surely that's way over price.

From what he has told me i have no compression in 5 cylinders and the valves are rooted, coils need to be replaced

Just got off the phone with the mechanic $2.2k for a N/A and has done about 62k

Surely that's way over price.

From what he has told me i have no compression in 5 cylinders and the valves are rooted, coils need to be replaced

could prob find an RB25det package on here for that...

Jesus Christ this turned into one expensive bloody weekend

thats only if you go rb25det

cause the computer is diff to NA one, will need the turbo brakes...at least at the front and then you have your engine

it could be done cheap if you sourched parts here and there, but a lot of farking around

then you will most likely need a diff to cause the na one wont haddle the power, which is why i suggested the k frame just unbolt the old one bolt up the new one and you will have 5 stud hubs to

For no compression in you car will be the valves, broken or whatever they always come up as 0 compression

doesnt mean that the bottom half of the engine is damaged, could just be the head needs new valves/machining etc

but you wont know until it gets pulled apart

Forgot what the town was called, but we stopped to fill up on snacks

img1453g.jpg

The town is called Mansfield *sigh* Sadly, I live in it. I wish I knew you guys were in town, I would have pretended my VRX was a skyline and snuck into the cruise :P

@ Ashneel, if you come up on the next cruise, you can check out your old TH hahaha :happy: . Still running! Although, it's changed owners now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...