Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 134
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well it looks like the cam belt came off, engine overheated then went POP! really i'm lucky i pulled over when i did i could of melted a rod or piston or at least something.

If i went a Rb25det what would i need to change?

Well it looks like the cam belt came off, engine overheated then went POP! really i'm lucky i pulled over when i did i could of melted a rod or piston or at least something.

If i went a Rb25det what would i need to change?

Look in the NA section, there's heaps of info there.

But to be honest, I don't reckon rebuilding an NA engine is worth it.

No i don't think so either and i was going to end up dropping RB25DET in the 33

Yeah, you could always sell the other working parts from the DE engine or even some of the running gears that you might replace with the turbo parts, eg brakes, exhaust etc.

Well it looks like the cam belt came off, engine overheated then went POP! really i'm lucky i pulled over when i did i could of melted a rod or piston or at least something.

If i went a Rb25det what would i need to change?

enigne, brakes, computer for engineers

and probably just change the whole rear k frame if you can afford it then you got brakes on rear and a better diff - not sure if you need to change the rears for engineers cert though.

best thing buy a halfcut and strip the shit out of it

Just got off the phone with the mechanic $2.2k for a N/A and has done about 62k

Surely that's way over price.

From what he has told me i have no compression in 5 cylinders and the valves are rooted, coils need to be replaced

Just got off the phone with the mechanic $2.2k for a N/A and has done about 62k

Surely that's way over price.

From what he has told me i have no compression in 5 cylinders and the valves are rooted, coils need to be replaced

could prob find an RB25det package on here for that...

Jesus Christ this turned into one expensive bloody weekend

thats only if you go rb25det

cause the computer is diff to NA one, will need the turbo brakes...at least at the front and then you have your engine

it could be done cheap if you sourched parts here and there, but a lot of farking around

then you will most likely need a diff to cause the na one wont haddle the power, which is why i suggested the k frame just unbolt the old one bolt up the new one and you will have 5 stud hubs to

For no compression in you car will be the valves, broken or whatever they always come up as 0 compression

doesnt mean that the bottom half of the engine is damaged, could just be the head needs new valves/machining etc

but you wont know until it gets pulled apart

Forgot what the town was called, but we stopped to fill up on snacks

img1453g.jpg

The town is called Mansfield *sigh* Sadly, I live in it. I wish I knew you guys were in town, I would have pretended my VRX was a skyline and snuck into the cruise :P

@ Ashneel, if you come up on the next cruise, you can check out your old TH hahaha :happy: . Still running! Although, it's changed owners now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
×
×
  • Create New...