Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had my r33GTST box rebuilt last year with completely new bearings throughout and new syncros in second and third. It has probably done 1000 kms since then most of which has been casual sort of driving.

I took my car for a drive yesterday to try and tune my boost controller and now im getting a whine coming when i press the clutch in. Release bearing tends to ring a bell, however i thought this only made a noise when the car was in neutral or the gearbox not engaged. It doesnt make any other noises and the car drives fine.

I run 300kws behind it, however its only ever had the best oils etc.

On a side note, since it was rebuilt it has always crunched into second when the oil was cold. Is this normal considering my new syncros?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296481-r33-gtst-box/
Share on other sites

Thrust bearing it is. It's a misconception that a worn thrust bearing makes a sound in neutral when the pedal is released; this is usually a gearbox related problem as with the pedal released, even in neutral, you have engaged the gearbox. In contrast, thrust bearing issues tend to show face when you push the pedal in because this is when the bearing is actually used.

Should have replaced clutch / thrust bearing when you reconditioned the gearbox...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296481-r33-gtst-box/#findComment-4939808
Share on other sites

It's not an autochange on the whole word "spigot" but it autochanges the word pig into cop.

Was the thrust race properly greased up when installed? It could be the spigot bush...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296481-r33-gtst-box/#findComment-4942627
Share on other sites

Hi Birds, thanks for your posts.

It was done by the engine reconditioner so in all honesty im not 100% but it didnt look too bad. How long do you think it is likely to take me and a friend (hes a mechanic but hasnt done one of these before) to remove gearbox (we have a hoist) remove release bearing and "spigot" and press in a new one?

You seem pretty onto it with these? Where did you get the knowledge from?

So basically its not a gearbox problem due to the gearbox not being engaged when the clutch is pushed in, and its likely to be one of these bits?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296481-r33-gtst-box/#findComment-4943506
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...