Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Well Ive been reading for a while and I have found some useful information relative to my first purchase of an R33 GTST. Ive found two cars(out of around 10) which both have their pro's and cons but I cant determine what to do. Hopefully seeking some advice to point in the right direction.

Below is a rundown of both cars, listing pros and cons.

Car One: 1997 Nissan Skyline R33 GTST Black

Pros: Car is completely standard apart from GReddy boost controller, BOV and turbo timer.

Stock exhaust, stock engine, stock airbox.

67000km's

First aus owner, owned car for 3 years selling due to recently having a child and requiring a family car. Nice and tidy inside. Engine sounds very smooth idle, no black or blue exhaust fumes. Oil looks around 6000km old. From top of engine, there appears to be no engine leaks. Suspension feels strong but it has been a tad bit lowered on sports suspension so feels abit too stiff. Has a sunroof. Very clean and tidy. No signs of burnouts.

Cons: Has its fair share of scratches on LHS near the door and rear panel. Hole cut inside of the dash on passenger side to fit a boost gauge. Has 18" rims which are all damaged and one has sever damage from clipping a kerb(the rim is bent, used to leak air). Front bar looks like the paint is starting to deteriorate and does not look as shiny as it should. A couple of 1cm scratches which are exposing rusting metal, only surface rust.

He is asking $13500.

Car Two: 1997 Nissan Skyline R33 GTST Black

Pro's: Car is stock, including the wheels. Only modification is an exhaust system(Cat back, I cant recall make). 92000km's. First owner in aus, has owned the car for around 2 - 3 years and during the time he claims to have only driven around 15000km's. I asked how, he says he only takes it out when traveling around the city and beaches(Any chance of excess salt water exposure?). Mature driver, ~30 years old. Recently changed the clutch and oils. Selling because going overseas for 6 months. Interior is immaculate. Dual alarm systems. Very smooth drive, beautiful sound, no odd clicking or rattling sounds. No rust. Only very minor visible outside scratches(read cons). No oil leaks from top inspection. Rear tires and undercarriage of rear did not indicate he was doing any burnouts(usually rear bold tires + rubber residue around tire guard)

Cons: At time of viewing, car was very dirty. Its was covered in dust. I asked why. Claims he hasn't taken the car out for weeks. I then thought to my self why would it get dirty in a garage? Front LHS tire bold on the outer side, leads me to believe it needs a wheel alignment. Front of car has been in a very minor accident. Someone backed up into his car damaging the LHS light + pushing in the front bar causing some denting in the bar. Does not appear to have had any panels changed and appears to me no front structural damage. The from LHS light was changed and for this reason I'm brought to another(somewhat) con. The LHS light is sparkling, clear and looks so friggin awesome. RHS light has the general yellow tinge making it look.... ugly. He said he couldn't justify paying $500 for another light(the guy hit his car and ran, he was parked).

Another con is that because the car was dirty, I could not properly check the quality of the paint. It only had front bar scratches/damage. From the front panels to the back of the vehicle, there were no visible scratches and the paint looked consistant but I cant play judgement because of the dirt on the car at the time.

He is asking $14500.

First car has already slashed $500 off but I think that $13000 is still abit expensive considering the scratches and rim damage. He said he will give me a few days to make him an offer and we can go from there.

Second car seems fairly solid on the price but stated that if I'm not wasting his time, he will accept a reasonable offer.

What should I do? I need advice. I'm going to get a proper pre purchase vehicle inspection but I don't want to outlay $200 for two separate inspections. I want to choose one car and have the test done on that.

Based on this information, what kind of price would be reasonable on the vehicles? Which vehicle would you deem worthy of a pre purchase inspection. I'm leaning towards the second vehicle.

Cheers guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296534-r33-gtst-buying-advice/
Share on other sites

It seems like your budget is about $14K.

To me $14K is a bit of a difficult figure to work with at the moment because...

1) if you search long and hard, you should be able to get a really clean respectable R33 GTsT for $12K (which means that the 2 cars you listed need to be bargained down quite a bit imho and leave $$$ over to correct niggly issues)

2) if you save long and hard, you can pick up a clean respectable R32 GT-R for $19K (and even Top Secret Imports have had 2-3 top notch ones in the past year for that price, one of which only had 78000Km and the seats/carpets were like new) or...

3) if you save long and hard, you can pick up a clean respectable R33 GT-R for $22K

Me? I'd wash car #2 myself on that 2nd look and think it over. Either that, or consider Options 2) or 3) above. My 2c.

LOL you mean have the owner wash car number 2. obviously not interested in putting a show on for the customer.. neglected view.. unless he's going for that 'hardly been driven' look..

by your post it looks like you favour car number 2. Also car number 2 looks like its not been mistreated and things like front lights are just cosmetic and easily replacable..

So i'd be looking at #2

Id be wary of any "Stock" Skyline thats had a boost controller in it.

Especially if its been cut into the dash. And that it has a bent rim from 'clipping' a curb.

It sounds to me like #1 doesnt care much, and has probly wound the boost up to see what its like.

It just seems odd to me to cut holes in a dash to install a controller, lol it could go anywhere.

#2 is entirely possible for cars to get filthy even in a garage. I depends on the garage really. But sounds like its a tad more on the safe side.

But it does seem wierd that he didnt take the time to run a hose over it especially if its for sale.

Cheers for the info guys. All good info here and its all info I could use. Sure I know about sports cars but I don't know what to look for, in terms of problematic components, when it comes to buying the right car.

Initially I was in the market got a GT-R but dropped my requirements as Insurance and the risks involved in owning the car. Not only risks to my self, but I live in a not so great area and car keyings and damage from ignorant jealous people isn't very uncommon.

I received a PM from grigor which had some really good information in it. Its kind of scary. There are so many things I gotta look at when making a purchase.

Ive spoken with the guys down at Dynamic Motor Sports and he's willing to check out a few cars for me and tell me whats what. He should know the skyline much better than I do.

I made contact with both sellers and spoke to them and I don't think Ill be buying their cars.

Might just head over to Top Secret to talk about importing a stock R33 GT-R.

This is so confusing, I don't just want to throw away my money. I want to try ensure I get a good buy which will last me and won't need me to fork out more dosh later on.

Guys, check out this car here: http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...&__Qpb=true

Ive made contact with the guy to try organize a meet. Just by looking at the add, I'd say its been hammered hard. Is it safe for a stock GT-R to be running 15PSI? And what the hell is he claiming 300kw. Is that figure absurd? Should I steer clear? Just over the phone Ive already slashed $1500 off the price. Engine bay looks dirty, outside looks a little dirty. Looks like there is some paint flaking off front driver side. Lights are yellowed. Gonna need NSW rego etc. Tires are stock, might be worn.

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...&__Qpb=true

Also found this. I don't know what to think of it. It looks dodgy. Claims the car was just imported and compliance and rego'd... and its private. Could it be a stolen car? Its down the road from my place, so I could check it out any time. Price seems over priced.

Edited by SargeRX8

The advice you've already received from "grigor" you can bank on.

The 15psi (1.1bar) you were enquiring about is not high for a GT-R, but I wouldn't be running higher than that (on standard propellers) without the turbo upgrade.

"grigor" may have told you about looking for rust, service history, tell-tale signs of damage etc.

Personally, I love the R33 GT-R.

If I was inspecting that kind of car, I'd get pretty emotional.

That's why you use your brains trust. Keep 3X other guys at the ready.

1) you pay a mechanic friend or Skyline-familiar workshop to check engine, rails, mounts, oil, suspension, bushings, compression, plugs, coils, looms, coolant, leaks yaddayadda

2) you take along a panelbeater friend to scrutinise for rust, damage, repairs, deterioration, paint, acid rain spots, tell-tale signs of panel removal via bolt edges, door/bonnet/bootlid alignment, window mouldings yaddayadda

3) an older guy like grigor or me (lol) who can be seconded later to do the haggling for you and...

4) yourself with your own list to check air cond, electric mirrors (and the fact that they fold back), heater, lights, musty smells, scratched upholstery;' in fact anything you can bargain with. You might be emotional as I would be, so let the others be objective.

BTW 300Kw would NOT be 'at the wheels' with virtually no mods. Not possible.

I just got back from inspecting that white GT-R.

I feel so sorry for that car. Guy claims he imports them and sells them. I popped the hood and the first thing I noticed was rust around the suspension wells. Next thing was the mould and rust around the door guards. Fading paint on the roof etc.

I walked away then and there.

Are those NRMA pre vehicle inspections worth it? Do they know what they're doing when it comes to Skylines and other imports?

Once the odo starts to approach 100,000Km or all 6 digits turn over for that matter, it's quite common for some misalignment.

Alignment tends to return to normal a little while after the 100000Km mark.

This is what I found happening on a past R31 Silhouette & 4th Gen Prelude.

If your concerned look for the tell tales sign of being clocked ie screws been undone before scratchs around plastic or glass..

I would say they look ok, maybe....

Mine is on 067576 and all my digits are perfectly straight were as on yours the 6 is higher??....

If your concerned look for the tell tales sign of being clocked ie screws been undone before scratchs around plastic or glass..

I would say they look ok, maybe....

Mine is on 067576 and all my digits are perfectly straight were as on yours the 6 is higher??....

Yeah, I was sussing that out. I don't understand whats wrong with some of these people. I offered one guy 13000 for his car just to see what he says and he goes you're dreaming. What the hell? How much does he think his car is worth?

I'm going to look at this funny clock one hopefully early this week. The guy claims to have all log books. I guess first thing Ill check is the Blue nissan plate. If its forged then Ill leave the car there because the books, logs and odo would be forged and false. Ill thoroughly inspect around the dash to see if I can pick up any signs of dismantlement. If I do ill start throwing some questions out.

Edited by SargeRX8

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...