R33 Gtr 2wd Dyno

[tigermm]

Ok, I know that youre not meant to run the 33s and 34s on a 2wd dyno without dropping the front shaft, my question is how well are the drive flanges held into the transfer case and front diff?

I want to remove the driveshaft at home then drive 50 odd km to the dyno place, will it be ok like this?

[N I B]

Yes its ok to drive like that,The spline in the Transfer case is sealed so no oil will leak.

You can safely put an R33 GTR back to 2wd but its easier to remove the shaft if you have not done it before.

[R31Nismoid]

Ye just take the shaft out - should take you 10mins at the most mate, not a massive job.

Perfectly fine to drive around with as well, just remember it'll be RWD

[Moodles2]

The alternative is pulling the 4WD fuse, but 33/34 transfer cases have preload on the clutch packs unlike the R32 unit

[D_Stirls]

I used to think that the preload on the 33's and 34's was a mechanical preload but there was a Zoom/Boost article a few months ago on 4WD transmissions that suggested that the preload was infact a hydraulic preload.

Is this the case or have the magazines once again got it wrong?

If it is a hydraulic preload than if the car hasn;t been started for a while and the line pressure is 0, then if you pull the fuse before the ATESSA pump has a chance to fire up then you shouldn't need to drop the shafts. Is this theory correct?

I know that it is risky and you really need a pressure gauge in the line to tell what the pressure is but it could work.

Also if it is a hydraulic preload then you should be able fit a solenoid to the line to relieve the pressure when you pull the fuse (or flick the switch if you wire it up that way) could this work?

[tigermm]

Yeah I think I will just drop the shaft.

I read in the engine manual I have that you can put it into 2wd mode by unplugging the atessa bleed connector under the dash and pumping the brakes 5 times within 10 sec. Havnt tried it but Im guessing this will end up the same as pulling the fuse, with preload?

[tigermm]

Well the 10 min job of dropping the front driveshaft turned into an hour long mission!

1 bolt was done up so tight it had warped the threads and another was so badly rounded I had to use vice grips on it. Honestly, the guy who had this car before me was the worlds most retarded mechanic.

Even if everything goes nicely I reckon this is a good half hour job unless you have a hoist.

[BIT SUS]

Well the 10 min job of dropping the front driveshaft turned into an hour long mission!

1 bolt was done up so tight it had warped the threads and another was so badly rounded I had to use vice grips on it. Honestly, the guy who had this car before me was the worlds most retarded mechanic.

Even if everything goes nicely I reckon this is a good half hour job unless you have a hoist.

hey mate, when you put the driveshaft back in, go spend $4 and get yourself some new Hi-Tensile bolts and nuts (and spring washers)

I take my drive shaft out at least once a month, and I do it on axle stands in the garage at home, and its now only a 15 minute job. Removing the chassis brace bar and clutch slave cylinder is a pain, but better than having some mechanics charge for it!