Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

250rwkw is easily doable on the factory ECU trent - ben has done it on countless cars

i agree, just not on my dyno. Ive had plenty of std ecu gtr's on mine (about 17 now) and none have made anywhere near that unless remapped. i had one come close and that was dirk digglers (SAU member) he made 239 ish on a mines ecu.

yep soon as the restrictor is removed the std ecu pours in the fuel and dumbs it down. Most GTR's will pull around 190-200rwkw with a stock ecu, with a mines ecu they will pull around 220 (loads more timing about 29 degrees peak but still rich) a remap will yeild 230rwkw at less boost or 240kw with the restrictor removed and the remap controlling boost.... Sarumatix yours still has the highest reading on my dyno for a std rb26 so dont worry..... yet :)

Sweet, so mine seems ok then assuming its running 14psi.

I think the ecu is stock, doesnt have any stickers or anything on it.

Its running 11:1 afr by the time the boost peaks and goes down to 10:1 from there to the redline.

Can the timing be advanced from stock?

ROFL.

Yes, not saying it isn't ceramic but no one has actually proven it to be that.

Keep in mind that you are talking about dust, not chunks, and when a turbine wheel comes off, what happens to the comp wheel? It starts machining the housing away at the front. This creates dust also. What happens to alloy dust when you burn it? It looks like what you'd imagine ceramic to look like.

Theories of engines sucking blades back into themselves is a bit far fetched. Can happen, I'm sure, but you guys all make out like it's going to happen to every single GTR turbo that ever existed.

Thought you might like that one :D

Funnily enough actually the comp wheel actually seems to stay intact in most cases. I would agree this is a weird occurence being the shaft is now unbalanced and so on.

You would expect the comp wheel to make a fair meal out of the comp housing - i've personally seen 4 blow GTR turbos (one of them my own) missing just the rear wheel and zero damage to the front side of the turbo.

This again would defy common logic (shaft unbalancing etc etc).

They are not sucking the blades though, only small portions of it. I know i used a poor example in another thread where by you drop a glass and it basically shatters everywhere even though the force is going one way - similar to when a turbine lets go, totally depends i would imagine on where in the dump/exhaust flow etc that it decides to split into cosmic dust sized pieces.

Is that on an untuned car with just a cat back exhaust?

Well yeah dude, stock ECU means stock - ie no tune.

I had:

- Cam gears

- Stock dumps

- Custom 2.5" x2 front pipes that merge...

- Into 3.5" exhaust

- GT-SS turbos, 12.5psi

That is all i needed to make 250rwkw on the stocker ECU @ Racepace. Ben said at the time it was a pretty solid result compared to the majority which usually required around 14-15psi for similar results.

i agree, just not on my dyno. Ive had plenty of std ecu gtr's on mine (about 17 now) and none have made anywhere near that unless remapped. i had one come close and that was dirk digglers (SAU member) he made 239 ish on a mines ecu.

When i get my car back i'll do the rounds (ill attempt to do it the same day).

I'll hitup Dr Drift, you, Racepace and RE.

See if in one day, how/where the results vary, would be a very interesting thing to do i reckon

I would have thought once the exhaust wheel has exploded, the turbo stops spinning, as there is nothing to drive it, hence why the comp wheel is fine. If it was chewed comp wheel/housing on the pistons, then it would be on all the pistons, not just the corresponding three to the blown turbo.

Well yeah dude, stock ECU means stock - ie no tune.

I had:

- Cam gears

- Stock dumps

- Custom 2.5" x2 front pipes that merge...

- Into 3.5" exhaust

- GT-SS turbos, 12.5psi

That is all i needed to make 250rwkw on the stocker ECU @ Racepace. Ben said at the time it was a pretty solid result compared to the majority which usually required around 14-15psi for similar results.

Well dude, your stock ecu could have a daughter board in it, therefore be tuned, I dunno. Thats why I specified untuned rather than just factory ecu.

Also I dont have cam gears, front pipes, or a couple of grand worth of turbos. I was a bit worried I was down on power when you said it should be 250.

Given this Im thinking 222kw is probably ok for a stock car with just the catback.

What I really wanted to know is if my engine is making normal healthy GTR power.

Adriano, I was thinking the exact same thing. even if the turbo did start chewing the housing it would stop pretty damn quick, and yeah the ali would be thru the whole engine most likely.

Its weird cause I have never heard of other skylines doing this and they all have ceramic wheels. Maybe its that GTR manifolds are a lot shorter?

I ran my GTS4 with a GTt turbo at 15psi for years and never had an issue. Even managed a 12.995 1/4 with it at 18psi

It would be interesting to know how many of the turbos that fail are on cars with aftermarket BOVs which are adjusted to build more pressure before they open.

I was reading that thread which was linked earlier and one guy said his failed when he changed gear, and another said his was after a drag run. Both are times when the throttle has been snapped shut so there would be a lot of pressure built up on the intake side, and still a lot of gas flow and inertia on the exhaust side.

That would mean a sudden spike in the torque being applied to the turbo shaft and it might be why the wheel drops off.

My GTS4 always had the stock BOV on it.

Edited by tigermm

I must admit i was a skeptic until i saw the pic of the piston on the exhaust side with all the little 'chips' in it. We can all speculate the laws of physics, but the pic is pretty conclusive...

ceramic.jpg

To give you something to compare against, i was pretty disappointed when my healthy R34 GTR made 210awkw last week, with Power FC, 2.5" front pipes, cat, 3" catback, pods, and 14 psi (200awkw on 12psi too). It does feel tough though, so don't be too fussed with the numbers too much if the car feels solid..

Edited by ELZ-00R

well I think 200-220 is about right for a standard gtr with standard turbs. ash's example had aftermarket turbos is it is not relevent to the discussion.

a little bit of realism is a good idea, everyone reading this thread will think every stock gtr makes 250kw when 99% of them make 20% less than that. and the 1% that are making 250 are either bullshit, not standard ecus, not standard boost or not standard turbos.

Well you would need 250 to run a mid 11 in a 32GTR (street tyres), i know a car that has indeed achieved this, and a few that have come close.

So some people are making around that much.

Proof is in the pudding, or the 1/4 mile in this case.

Well yeah dude, stock ECU means stock - ie no tune.

I had:

- Cam gears

- Stock dumps

- Custom 2.5" x2 front pipes that merge...

- Into 3.5" exhaust

- GT-SS turbos, 12.5psi

That is all i needed to make 250rwkw on the stocker ECU @ Racepace. Ben said at the time it was a pretty solid result compared to the majority which usually required around 14-15psi for similar results.

HAHAHA no wonder GT-SS's make all the difference, i was talking std ECU and STD TURBOS. The std ecu runs around 24 peak degrees but can handle 3-4 more, it is also mega rich from about 5500 so you could get away with around 12-15psi on the std gtr ecu.

Edited by URAS
When i get my car back i'll do the rounds (ill attempt to do it the same day).

I'll hitup Dr Drift, you, Racepace and RE.

See if in one day, how/where the results vary, would be a very interesting thing to do i reckon

Yeah definately, it wont cost you a cent on my end. We have had a few guys do comparos now from the melbs15 club so ive nothing to hide. I think even STAO from hyper gear drove from DRDRIFTS to mine and pulled within 2-3rwkw on his old CA dyno test car, he didnt tell me either till after we pulled the runs :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...