Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I cant find any actual guides on how to do it or where your meant to drain and fill it up from?

Has anyone got any pics of where you need to drain and top it up? or can you explain where it needs to be done cause my car definately needs it.

Technically its not that hard....

There is a drain plug on the bottom of the gearbox, you cant miss it,

it in the centre right at the lowest part of the gearbox.

The filler plug is half way up the passenger side of the gearbox, just follow up

from the drain plug.

When you do it clean the metal shavings of the metallic drain plug, and easier if you use a hose into the filler plug to fill.

I havent been able to do it yet, i couldnt get the filler plug off (car wasnt high enough of the ground!)

And its exactly the same for the diff...

as nissky said, thats all correct. The plug is a bitch to get off, and make sure u can take off the filler first, (if u drain first then can't undo it, ure fkd :D).

Really need a hoist to make it easier, and probably worthwhile to pay joe mechanic $30 to do it for u.

Ill also vouch for redline :(

as nissky said, thats all correct. The plug is a bitch to get off, and make sure u can take off the filler first, (if u drain first then can't undo it, ure fkd :)).

Really need a hoist to make it easier, and probably worthwhile to pay joe mechanic $30 to do it for u.

Ill also vouch for redline :)

You arent ****ed in a way. I have done it on the ground a few times and have always been able to get it off with a 17mm spanner, although its a long one, but if you cant then just fill through the gear stick on a Gtst. It ussually takes about 2L.

unless u have 1/2 decent tools just get a mechanic to do. the ease of the job will be mostly dependant on how tight the last person to change the oil did the bolts up. based on how hard my side plug was done up i have visions of an overmuscled, non-too-bright lad doing the last oil change on my car

Do you have to change the filter on the Manual gearbox? Is there a filter on the Manual boxes?  

I know that when changing oil on an auto box, you need to replace the filter aswell. Is this true for the Skylines?

there is no filter on a manual box. The bottom drain plug is magnetic to collect metal particles though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...