Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know this is probably a long shot but does anyone know of any vids showing a GTR and a Hayabusi dragging. Just want to settle a bit of a dispute with a mate and would love to see it anyway.

If not a Hayabusa, then maybe other quick bikes R1 etc and of course with a win to the GTR.

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29759-gtr-vs-suzuki-hayabusi/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I know this is probably a long shot but does anyone know of any vids showing a GTR and a Hayabusi dragging. Just want to settle a bit of a dispute with a mate and would love to see it anyway.

If not a Hayabusa, then maybe other quick bikes R1 etc and of course with a win to the GTR.

Thanks!

I have a video of a modified Supra dragging a stock Hayabusa. Would that help your dispute?

And a win to the GTR would prove what exactly? That you can tailor-build your own car for $80k+ that will beat a $15k motorcycle?

No, actually it would prove that a street registered car is capable of beating a $35000 bike or one of the quickest bikes around which is what he does not believe.

You could tailor build your own car for $80000 or you could just buy an R32 for $41000 with 850hp which is what I am test driving on Tuesday.

Of course a street registered car is capable of beating a Hayabusa.

It all depends on how much money you have to sink into the car. Oh, and just because it's street registered, doesn't mean it's street LEGAL, which it won't be.

Anyway, this is comparing a HEAVILY, HEAVILY modified car vs. Stock Hayabusa.

How about a modified street car vs. modified Hayabusa? Bye Bye Mr. Street Car :D

Saw a turbo-charged blue Hayabusa run at the creek once.  Man that thing flew...  Would hate to think what it would take in dollars on a street car to beat it.

Adrian

I would even venture to say it would be near impossible for a street car to beat it.

Stock busa does low-mid 10s... What would a worked (turbocharged, etc) busa run? mid-high 8s? low 9s?

How many 8 seconds cars do you know? Now ask yourself how many of them are true "street cars"? :)

But the thing is, with bikes that quick and powerful, there aren't that many riders out there that can launch them at their full potential, as they're scared of flipping the thing, or flying off the back.... and rightly so! I'd wet myself piloting a busa down the 1/4 mile, let alone a turbocharged one!!!! :D:)

Hayabusa at Final Battle was converted to 3-wheel, was turbo charged, and had NOS. Talked to the owner, and he said it's run a 5.5 1/4 mile assisted by NOS, and a 7.5 without NOS. And for some reason, it's registered as a car, because of the 3 wheels, and so he doesn't need to wear a helmet....insane

Martin Donnon once pondered in an Aussie mag (prob Hot4's) what it would be like to take the 1300cc motor from a Hayabusa and fit it to a Cappuccino.

Would LOVE a crack at one of those on a track! (Round a track not just straight along it though :D )

Adrian

No, actually it would prove that a street registered car is capable of beating a $35000 bike

I don't know what you've been smoking, but a Hayabusa does not cost anywhere near $35k. Unless you're talking about adding $20k worth of mods of course. But if you're talking about mods, see other people's posts above.

I don't know what you've been smoking, but a Hayabusa does not cost anywhere near $35k. Unless you're talking about adding $20k worth of mods of course. But if you're talking about mods, see other people's posts above.

well my mate told me they were $33000 + on roads but anyway I got some vids....thanks guys.

Brand new they are just under $20k. Second hand you can get them for under $13k. $15k is about average. Have a look on Tradingpost if you don't believe me. For $35k a Hayabusa would be running 8's easily. I think there's a turbo kit for around $10k, plus you lengthen the swingarm to help stop it looping.

I'm not saying that one is better than the other, all I'm saying is by having a GTR that can beat a Hayabusa is only proving that you have more money to burn.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...