Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone know whether a set of 18 x 9.5 +20 wheels would fit on a 33 GTS-t coupe, front & rear?

Just want to make sure that there would be clearance all round.

Cheers

Edited by Cake

Had 18x9.5+22 on the rear of mine, 265 tires, fair bit of guard flaring was needed to fit em...

18x8.5 +22 on the front fit flush with 235's, scrubbing the plastic guard liners on full lock/big bumps.

Pics in the thread in my signature.

I've got 18 x 9 +23 up front, and a 18 x 9.5+18 on the back. 235's and 245's respectively. Fronts fit without any mods, sit just in but pretty flush. Rears have been flared a fair bit, but probably would have got away with a slight pump and more camber/skinnier tyre. I just didn't want the rim sticking out too much, too much police attention for a daily.

there is a thread with this info.

will be very agressive fitment

18 x 9 +30 with 225/40 also got 25mm spacer to clear brakes so makes it about +5 sticks out quite alot.

18 x 10 +20 with 235/40

i had to roll guards front and back to stop scrubbing if you dont stretch tyres it wont be fun if your lowered

nisskid is best to ask for this stuff :bunny:

Cheers guys, yeah nisskid I thought that may be the case. Should clear the standard brakes ok, and not rub on the suspension? Also what's a reasonably stretched tyre size to fit on an 18 x 9.5 wheel?

A few of you say guard flaring, do you mean rolling?

Cheers guys, yeah nisskid I thought that may be the case. Should clear the standard brakes ok, and not rub on the suspension? Also what's a reasonably stretched tyre size to fit on an 18 x 9.5 wheel?

A few of you say guard flaring, do you mean rolling?

i wouldnt go smaller than a 215/40.

it will clear suspension, brake clearance depends on disk height

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Make sure you use the spherical bushes** on the lower arms, ifyou do that. ** at least, if not the whole replacement lower arm.
    • The tap for coolant flow control will be stuck open. It's not just the air door motor that dies.
    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
×
×
  • Create New...