Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, they day has come to replace my stock turbo and i have no experience in this field so some help and answered questions would be great.

1. my friend has a 2nd hand t3 turbo, is it bolt on..and what would be a suitable price to offer him

2. where would i go to get it compression tested...and if the t3 turbo isnt bolt on where can i go to get it high flowed.

3. which of the 2 is the better option. thankyou.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/298388-need-a-new-turbo/
Share on other sites

how much do you want to spend and how much power do you want to make

a "t3 turbo" is like saying you have a "computer" for sale

there are million different pc manufacturers, combinations, models, variants, specs, speeds, etc, its impossible to clasify it as a "computer" much like a turbo as a "t3"

typically "t3" spec turbochargers are cheap ass-spec units either sold on ebay or from dinosaur spec cars like vl turbo's etc - probably the standard one is better and easier to fit

a no-spec'd t3 is worth no more than $300 ? it could be complete junk on your skyline?

a brand new ball bearing garrett spec is typically $2000, so a sub $300 is going to be shithouse

a 2nd hand R33 turbo is worth $200-$300 in comparison

get the turbocharger compression tested or your engine? you can't compression test a turbo, but you can get it inspected, checked and verify of specs and/or model etc

ATP in melbourne can do it for also some well known workshops can inspect them for you and do basics checks, but for true check i would check with ATP

ATP is the only place i know of, there would be heaps more in vic, some other guys will post up some places

if the turbo isn't bolt on, it isn't bolt on, period. highflowing it doesn't make it magically bolt on.

if the t3 turbo you still want, doesnt fit, then youll have to change stuff to make it fit. probably flanges, bolt patterns, spacers, rotate the housings etc to make it fit

highflowing the turbocharger involves a replacment of all items that are perishable (compressor wheel, exhaust wheel, bearings, seals) and the only things that remain original are the cast iron housings. the replacement items are higher flowing spec (thus the term highflow) so it makes more power for the same sized unit.

way i made it easy for me.... what HP do you want ? get that, then it nail's down the snail's and you dont have a few hundred to go through, just a couple.

easiest way i did it was horsepowerinabox.com they have turbo's and HP rating, Flange spec, then i went off onto google and forum and read up on applications, and what else is needed to run the turbo.

but yeah once you work out your HP you want, its much more simple

to be honest im not after huge numbers, even just the same power i got out of the stock turbo..maybe a little extra.. i dont want to spend major bux...do you have the number of this ATP place if you do please pm me it thanks.

p.s i didnt realise there are different types of t3 o.O thought it was just one brand, goes to show what i know.

and what i ment was, can i just high flow the stock turbo i have? would it be cheaper

well wen i read your other thread, u said u had a problem with the turbo's wheel. i thought high flowing would fix that..someone plz correct me if i'm wrong.. but yeh, price? you're looking at about 800 to 1500 bucks for a hi flow job..

well wen i read your other thread, u said u had a problem with the turbo's wheel. i thought high flowing would fix that..someone plz correct me if i'm wrong.. but yeh, price? you're looking at about 800 to 1500 bucks for a hi flow job..

wow...i thought if u keep the stock n high flowing it, it would be cheaper then buying a new turbo?

wow...i thought if u keep the stock n high flowing it, it would be cheaper then buying a new turbo?

It is cheaper than buying a brand new turbo,,thats if u want something good for your car..high flowing will just replace the interiors of your turbo with stronger parts and makes the housing bigger. u can look them up, im sure theres a thread somewhere here about it,if not, google

but if all you're looking for is around 200kw, better off just buying a second hand r33 one

never heard of a "t3" turbo myself.... many turbo's have a t3 type flange :D

i'd say if you're not fussed about big power, want to maintain stock low mount position (bolt on), re-use your oil/water lines (although i'd suggest replacing them anyway), and have the same level of punchy response with a quick spool.. then a high flow GCG turbo should suit your needs.

+1 for going to hypergear to hiflow your turbo he does great work and for the money youll pay you could see 250kw with supporting mods with the standard r33 turbo housing. From what I have seen the only really compelte bolt on kits are the hks ones but they dont come cheap I highly reccomend for you purpose a hi flow since its really a direct bolt on

never heard of a "t3" turbo myself.... many turbo's have a t3 type flange :rofl:

i'd say if you're not fussed about big power, want to maintain stock low mount position (bolt on), re-use your oil/water lines (although i'd suggest replacing them anyway), and have the same level of punchy response with a quick spool.. then a high flow GCG turbo should suit your needs.

all vl drivers seem to classify there turbos in terms of t3, t4 etc

never heard of a "t3" turbo myself.... many turbo's have a t3 type flange :rofl:

i'd say if you're not fussed about big power, want to maintain stock low mount position (bolt on), re-use your oil/water lines (although i'd suggest replacing them anyway), and have the same level of punchy response with a quick spool.. then a high flow GCG turbo should suit your needs.

Mmmmmm flange.

+1 for going to hypergear to hiflow your turbo he does great work and for the money youll pay you could see 250kw with supporting mods with the standard r33 turbo housing. From what I have seen the only really compelte bolt on kits are the hks ones but they dont come cheap I highly reccomend for you purpose a hi flow since its really a direct bolt on

yerh i called him up and got a price, it probably seems like the cheapest,best option to go for. what would be a safe psi setting to run on the high flowed turbo when i get it.?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...