Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You may have some issues although nobody could tell me what the difference is between the ARX and RS suspension.

I suspect the BC coilovers I bought may have been for the ARX as the rears were nothing like what I needed, but I never checked, I just modified them.

A friend has just bought an ARX (GOLD LIKE YOURS) and has been speaking to Just Jap as I believe they are having some made that will be available quite soon.

I will try to get some more specific details for you.

Cheers

Andy

I was recently speaking to a guy selling BC coilovers on Ebay, runs his business out of New Zealand. Told him of the issues scotty had with them, he made enquiries to BC, apparrently, they have updated the NM35 kit (sept or so) to correct the issues. He was witing for updated parts for his kits at the time. So presumably, any kit ordered now, would be correct.

Hope this helps, Dale

Thanks guys I've been looking on eBay as well and seen the same things but this guy in new Zealand is not responding to my emails and waiting for an answer back for tenabe ones guess I ll

have to just wait and see what happens

thanks again guys

Thanks guys I've been looking on eBay as well and seen the same things but this guy in new Zealand is not responding to my emails and waiting for an answer back for tenabe ones guess I ll

have to just wait and see what happens

thanks again guys

Be careful which set if you buy for an ARX.

Yes Tanabe NF are adjustible... from -37mm to -78mm front and -38mm to -73mm rear WHEN FITTED TO AN RS, which means that on an ARX, you will be 77mm lower at the front from stock ride height when the Tanabe's are fully wound out!!

Maybe look for Bilstein or Nismo dampers and add a set of springs that are suitable for ARX.

Edited by iamhe77
Be careful which set if you buy for an ARX.

Yes Tanabe NF are adjustible... from -37mm to -78mm front and -38mm to -73mm rear WHEN FITTED TO AN RS, which means that on an ARX, you will be 77mm lower at the front from stock ride height when the Tanabe's are fully wound out!!

Maybe look for Bilstein or Nismo dampers and add a set of springs that are suitable for ARX.

do u think they will fit straight on without any mods

do u think they will fit straight on without any mods

Do not know for sure.

I can't imagine that the setup would be any different, but you have to remember that the ARX is 40mm higher from factory than the RS/RX.

Can you trial fit?

They're not technically coil overs on the rear of an M35 as the springs are separate from the shocks. So only the front is true coil over and that's as per standard.

Cheers

Gary

I think most of us are aware of the old "coilover" chestnut.

Given your expertise in the industry, would you happen to have a suspension solution for the original question (also for the RS/RX owners)?

There's a few people (myself included) who would welcome a local solution rather than resorting to importing parts ourselves...

Cheers, Dale

I think most of us are aware of the old "coilover" chestnut.

Given your expertise in the industry, would you happen to have a suspension solution for the original question (also for the RS/RX owners)?

There's a few people (myself included) who would welcome a local solution rather than resorting to importing parts ourselves...

Cheers, Dale

I second that motion local is easiest way

but I'm leaning towards resetting the springs any positive or negative thoughts on this way I've been td that u get the same ride comfort as factory what do u guys think

cheers Damon

I had a set of Bilsteins fitted to the ARX but kept the original springs for ride height (wanted to keep the stock look plus find the tailgate is fairly low already). This generally fixed the washy ride but it now crashes over the slightest depression in the road. I guess that the softish stock springs are not matched to the stiff Billsteins.

Currently waiting to get a set of ARX height Pedders springs made thorugh Ben at Northshore. Apparently 30% stiffer springs.

The stiffer springs should also help cornering - perhaps what it will finally need is an adjustable set of sway bars like Andy has done.

I second that motion local is easiest way

but I'm leaning towards resetting the springs any positive or negative thoughts on this way I've been td that u get the same ride comfort as factory what do u guys think

cheers Damon

the ride with the the Lowered Bilstein springs and sway bars is definatley firmer and can crash over some bumps but mind you with the stock setup the car was leaping over the road through the same pot holes. Also a big factor will be the tires you have on your car. the stiffness of the side wall is noticeable.

I guess for me the real test was from the seat of the pants of my wife. She thinks the ride is very good and has no problem with the stiffness of the set up and she is definable not into performance cars at all.

And best of all,, I love it. :)

On the topic of coilovers/suspension,

i have the tein kit on my car, it gets a little bouncy in the rear end still.. what do i do to fix this problem?

What kind of adjustment to they have? none? Height? Height & damper?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...