Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hell everyone,

Couple months back I bought an r33. Mechanic who checked it out said the timing belt had been replaced at 100,000km's as indicated by a sticker in Japanese on the engine. However, Ive been recently told thats the sticker to say the belt NEEDS to be replaced at 100,000km's....

It's currently done 145,000km's and theres no sticker to indicate that the timing belt has been replaced.

Would it cost much to jst get it checked somehow? Im scared to drive it now cause I dont know whether Im jst skating on thin ice or the sticker somehow fell off...

Thanks in advance

You've got 2-3 kms left before meltdown. How far away is your mechanic?

Nah, I'd just get it changed anytime soon (and start your own log book).

Not knowing what the sticker says or if the sticker has fallen off, the stress and worry will take years off your life lol.

'Tis good you are vigilant tho'

Now that it's done 45000kms since the change (if it has been changed), the belt on inspection won't feel like new anyway.

And Nissan recommends a major service at 140000Kms as well (assuming that the odometer is correct).

You've got 2-3 kms left before meltdown. How far away is your mechanic?

Nah, I'd just get it changed anytime soon (and start your own log book).

If the sticker has fallen off, the stress and worry will take years off your life. 'Tis good you are vigilant tho'

Now that it's done 45000kms since the change (if it has been changed), the belt on inspection won't feel like new anyway.

And Nissan recommends a major service at 140000Kms as well (assuming that the odometer is correct).

Oh what sorta things get done at the 140000km servive?

Guess Ill jst change it soon.

^^^ Same as 40000Km service where the Manual (in English) says...

Engine Oil = R

Oil Filter = R

Drive Belts = I

Engine Coolant = R

Cooling System = I

Air Filter (paper type) = R

Fuel Lines = I

Fuel Filter = R

Oxygen Sensor = I

EVAP vapor lines = I

Brake & Clutch Fluid = I (for level & leaks)

Brake Fluid = R

Brake Booster Vacuum hoses, Connections & check valve = I

Power Steering Fluid & Lines = I

Brake, Clutch & Exhaust Systems = I

Transmission Gear Oil = I

Differential Gear Oil = I

LSD Gear Oil = R

Transfer Fluid = R

Steering Gear & Linkage, Axle & Suspension parts, Propeller shafts & Drive shafts = I

Ventilation Air Filter = R

Wheel Alignment = I

Brake Pads, Rotors & Components = I

Lock, Hinges & Bonnet Latch = L

Seat Belt Buckles, Retractors, Anchors & Adjuster = I

Foot brake, Parking brake & Clutch (for free play, stroke & operation) = I

I= Inspect

R = Replace

L= Lubricate

Hope this helps. DIY most of it of course.

Mine was very similar, sticker had been removed & the belt did look as if it had been changed-but who knows when.

Just to be safe than sorry I bought a new belts, tensioner pulleys, water pump & cam seals & changed them all over.

In the next change I will be doing the oil pump as well as a new water pump,belt & tensioners, crank seal, cam seals, new a/c- power steer-alternator etc & getting a power steering flush too.

Nissan have invasive valve setups on them so it pays to be a little paranoid as to where Timing Belts are concerned & make sure YOU know when they have been done. My advice is Change it anyway- its not a hard job-just takes a little time to do.

Get the engine manual from JPNZ for $150NZD which has a step-by-step instruction on how do to everything you will ever need to know & save yourself a fortune on mechanics costs

Sticker is a 100,000km reminder, if it doesn't have kilometres or some sort of date etched/scratched/written onto it (some japanese go by their imperial calender), then it's a good indicator the belt hasn't been done. Or the sticker could have been put on it when the belt was changed, when you buy a genuine Nissan timing belt, you get a silver sticker with it, to stick on somewhere and write the km/s done when it was changed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
×
×
  • Create New...