Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1. The RB30 4 blocks SPOOL IMPORTS was so kind to supply me with!

2. One cleaned block. Bored to the new CP pistons, and ready for install.

3. Spool conrods, ARP bolts, CP pistons - ceramic coated on top and teflon coated on the side. CP piston rings.

4. Pistons and rods mounted. Main bolts i use unbrako 12.9 bolts. (example. Opel lotus omega use this as std)

5. Fitting the intake plenum to renewed head. Portmatched, and a little porting. Otherwise std RB25 head for now. (Done the oil mods, enlarged the oil return, extra oil return to oil pan etc..

6. Engine ready to go in.

7. Old RB25DET setup.

8. New RB30DET engine in.

9. Relocation of fuse boks..

10. More engine work and the work place / car.

11. Test mounting the turbo. (GT4094R)

12. Exhaust manifold done, turbo mounted correct way, exthaust temp probes mounted at each cylender, wiring done, (only wiring in engine bay is for engine and temp probes)

13. Heat wraping done.

14. Were i am now. I need to put clamp on pressure piping, mount water cooler, fill her up and crank it. (This picture is before oil cooler was mounted, its there now. 19 rows.)

There is alot other work to the car.. But this is engine thread soo.. :-)

This is my budget build on a RB30DET.. To reach the aim i have i still need to get a double or triple clutch, and some headwork. (Cams, and springs and least!) The aim is 700 - 800 crank HP. (With MAYBE 150 NOS ontop for 1/4).. But for now it is ~500 crank HP until the things i need done are done..

post-24535-1260302611_thumb.jpg

post-24535-1260303416_thumb.jpg

post-24535-1260303578_thumb.jpg

post-24535-1260303628_thumb.jpg

post-24535-1260303933_thumb.jpg

post-24535-1260304019_thumb.jpg

post-24535-1260304067_thumb.jpg

post-24535-1260304211_thumb.jpg

post-24535-1260304283_thumb.jpg

post-24535-1260304354_thumb.jpg

post-24535-1260304461_thumb.jpg

post-24535-1260304533_thumb.jpg

post-24535-1260304694_thumb.jpg

post-24535-1260304780_thumb.jpg

post-24535-1260304885_thumb.jpg

Edited by nissan200sx.dk
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299467-my-rb30det-build/
Share on other sites

Only engine block has cost me 5239 AUD in total to build complete with new tensioners, belt, etc.. Then there is the GT4094R. RB25DET head is std but re-newed so not that big a cost as i also already had it from me RB25 engine. exhaust manifold has cost me maybe 100AUD, homemade as all other things done to this car. Intake and throttle body is about 400AUD plus ALOT of time to make nice. Intake manifold was a very poor fit, plus very uneven in the runners.Then there is alot of small bits and pieces, dont know what that has run up in. Also got a vi-pec ECU a short time before i started with the RB30 build.

This time around i have spent a total of 16592 AUD on the car (this is including the above which is only engine..) And still need to use ~13000AUD to get the car "finished" to were i do not want more done to it.. (I know there is ALWAYS something else to do... hehe).

The last picture here is my old CA18DET setup.. Car was completely std when bought 6 years ago.

post-24535-1260352308_thumb.jpg

post-24535-1260352353_thumb.jpg

post-24535-1260352428_thumb.jpg

post-24535-1260352546_thumb.jpg

It's going to be interesting to see how things go. Well done :(

This would have to be one of the larger turbo sizes onto a road driven RB engine. My Vipec gave an instant first start, and an even idle within a couple of minutes. Similarly a bit fluffy off-idle when touching the throttle, but impressive out of the box. :(

Thank you. I am a little surprised over this build. Start right up, idle perfect, and 2 min of tuning it takes rpms perfect now. No oil or water leaks.

Only issue ive had was that oil priming thing! I was expecting a little more in starting it up, but hey! i do not complain! hehe

Has been out for a few runs now. :) Drives very nice. Fantastic response, can feel the 500c extra! hehe. Love this!

No use of water, no use of oil, oil is super clean to look at, perfect oil pressure. at idle (1000 rpms right now - 25 psi oil pressure @ 140F. Oil is 10w40 mineral)

I need to fit my servo steering though! Damn i need to pull in that steering wheel! And need to build the rest of the exhaust. right now it got a 40cm downpipe after turbo, thats it. (sounds really sweeeeet!!)

Need to modify bonnet to fit, cant close as new engine is almost 4cm taller than the rb25.

Edited by nissan200sx.dk

Hi all!!

Engine is going strong! Has almost 3 hours of drive time on it now. Oil is completely clear, oil pressure is spot on. No funny noises or nothing.

I need some info on exhaust temps.

On cruise what exhaust temp should it be around? Right now it does not go over 450C..

on full load what temp? Has not tested FULL load.

And what is considered as high temps. I can set an alarm, that will cut engine revs to what i set it to, if temps go over a set temp.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey crew, Failed my WOF cause of a lower control arm, and I've decided to hit both arms, and also the compression rods at the same time(seems they're gonna be the most likely upcoming failure points from some discussions with the lads over on the G35 reddit). I've looking at these form Z1:  https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-compression-rod-p-40716.html https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-lower-control-arm-p-40674.html I asked Z1 if they'd work as it's the same platform, just RHD vs LHD. I basically got told "Lol dunno". Specifically they aren't aware of any difference but can't guarantee fitment as they haven't done it on a 350GT. So guess I'm asking is if there is any issues with using 2005 G35 coupe suspension parts on a 2005 350GT coupe? Orginally I thought it could be something in the way of the arms that each control arm is designed to be positioned around, but that'd be an engineering nightmare for Nissan needing two different shaped control arms 😅
    • ^ This. The mode door actuator is a common failure, as is the actuator and/or the actual valve for the coolant flow control valve. I also don't know how available the mode door actuator is these days. I've been meaning to look into it and get one from wherever is possible, to keep in the shed for the rainy day when mine eventually fails. Anyway, the advice to you is to search the usual NOS part supply places, or even just go to Nissan and see what they list.
    • Have you got a pic of the actuator? My guess is that unit has failed internally and was flopping around, so the previous engineer who owned it forced it to be fully open to cold air (blocking the heater core path). As far as you can tell, is anything else wrong in the system? Likely you just need a new actuator (not sure how available they are) and then "installation is the reverse of disassembly"
    • I'm happy with the Lsailt unit that I put in, it puts full Android on the top screen so you can run whatever Nav and other Apps you want, while still existing inside the factory functionality like automatic reverse cams, audio input switching, retains factory bluetooth etc. Not cheap and the install was moderate (not simple, not hard) Yours is a V36 not V37 though right?
    • Yeap, all the NC's that I originally looked at that had a hard top were PRHT, which makes the roof line look horrible, hence why I said nope to them My only caveat for another MX5 was it needed to have a hard top, and initially I didn't think you could get a detachable hard top for the NC,  like my NB had Again, a big thanks to Matty for helping me source the detachable hard top for my little girl, they are as rare as hens teeth in Australia, and the few people who have them, keep them Also to Greg, for initially pointing me in the NC direction NC PRHT 🤢🤮 Not mine (I really should take more photos of my car), but a NC with the detachable hard top 😁 To me, the difference in how the detachable hard top roof line looks, and how it actually follows the bodies lines, like they do on NA's and NB's, is chalk and cheese compared to the bulbous looking PRHT  
×
×
  • Create New...