Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Trust Extension Dump Pipes On R32gtr?

gtr fan

By gtr fan,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

gtr fan Experienced

gtr fan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So use r33 sensors?

But then these have to be bent to clear some other pipework or cabling don't they?

Maybe I should just go the Tomei's. I already have a good aftermarket front pipe but I don't the its as wide as the tomei outlet.

Angus Smart Grand Master

Angus Smart

Posted
Posted

Go tomei, the trust ones are a pita, i swapped mine out about a year or so ago..

my new front pipe wasnt quiet as big as the tomei outlet either but a die grinder made it a little better for flow.

Brandon Veteran

Brandon

Posted
Posted

Make sure you got the gtr one and not the vspec ones. They should all fit perfectly (maybe o2 will need some work) across all 3 models but the 34vspec has extra o2. No biggy, just need to find a bolt or bung to seal it up.

9krpm Mentor

9krpm

Posted
Posted

Why bother with the O2 sensor?

The RB26 is not a fuel efficient engine and having the O2 won't help much.

I changed my Mines dump and front pipe, which is similar to the Tomei dump, to the Greddy and gained a few hundreds rpm of boost response.

BTW does your Greddy front pipe have a flex pipe? If it doesn't, it would be best to get one installed.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

ORIGINAL Trust pipes come with adaptors, so it doesnt matter what O2.

be careful of copies though. There are a solid number of cheap knockoff's floating around for a while whose flanges etc were all uneven, different sizes etc.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted (edited)
Thanks everyone, I have spotted a genuine set. Just know there are mixed opinions about these pipes.

The only reason I am considering is because the price is not much more than tomei dumps.

they are the best flowing kit on the market.

I actually think there was a set going cheap at autobarn narre warren when i was down there last, nearly bought it as a spare.

Edited by URAS
Moodles2 Grand Master

Moodles2

Posted
Posted

Just be mindful about the O2 sensor types, R32 GTRs use a Titania based sensor, while 33's and 34s use a Zirconia based sensor, you can't use a Zirconia based sensor on the R32 GTR ecu (well you can, but it won't work as well).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...