Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Got my car back from my tuner yesterday and I'm running 400rwhp with a GT3076 and cams on a comfortable tune..... :)

Now I want some semi slicks on the rears before I hit the drags :ninja:

Anyone know of good bang for buck semi slicks I can grab in WA or online?

Thanks for the help in advance!

Ken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300475-400rwhp-what-semi-slicks/
Share on other sites

You want drag tyres just for the drag strip, or you want semi-slicks for road/circuit ?

For the drag strip I'd go Mickey Thompson Street ET's, and for circuit racing Bridgestone RE55's

Hi Mate,

Thanks for the advice!

Well seeing as its not an all out track car and used on road more, I want to go with some really good semi slicks for road/track.

Where is the best place to grab Semis from?

Hi Mate,

Thanks for the advice!

Well seeing as its not an all out track car and used on road more, I want to go with some really good semi slicks for road/track.

Where is the best place to grab Semis from?

You are far better off getting some tyres for the drags & running on the road on normal road tyres.

Semi slicks & radial drag tyres are rubbish on the street. Not to mention uncomfortable & fiendishly expensive.

Don't bother going to the drags with semi slicks - they are rubbish for that too. Get some drag tyres for the drags.

If you want to do some track work use Bridgestone RE55 semi slicks. Get them from the local distributer.

You are far better off getting some tyres for the drags & running on the road on normal road tyres.

Semi slicks & radial drag tyres are rubbish on the street. Not to mention uncomfortable & fiendishly expensive.

Don't bother going to the drags with semi slicks - they are rubbish for that too. Get some drag tyres for the drags.

If you want to do some track work use Bridgestone RE55 semi slicks. Get them from the local distributer.

Thanks for your input.

Comfort is not a issue as it is a weekend car usually.

Also the $$$ is not a problem as I need to buy new rear tyres soon anyway and I would like good quality tyres on the rear for a weekend drive.

I'm staying away from full drag slicks because I would like to see what I can run on road legal semi slicks at the drags.

That's impressive. How much whp was your 31 running?

Cheers James let me know how they go!

Not impressive , 60 ft shit for the tyres .. 31 makes 400+ rwhp , 60fts on Toyo Teo 225x50x16 are 1.8s .. 10sec 32 we used R888 toyos .. Comes down to driver and rest of the car set up

^^ yer i was reading an old hpi mag my gf bought me for 50c at an op shop last night :D and they were giving '10 ways to get a stockish rb25 into 11's' was kind of suprised to read they said ur best to ditch all stiff suspension (coilovers etc) and run stock struts/springs + minimum drag radials with small rims 15-16"

Edited by Char
You want drag tyres just for the drag strip, or you want semi-slicks for road/circuit ?

For the drag strip I'd go Mickey Thompson Street ET's, and for circuit racing Bridgestone RE55's

+1

Semi-slicks = slower times at the drags

Semi-slicks are better for the street but too expernsive as an ongoing cost. Who wants to spend $2K every 12 months on tyres?

A good quality street tyre will do the job for the street well enough.

MT ET's are great for drag as the side wall is softer and far more suited for drag racing (that's what they were made for).

If you are serious about quick times, get ET's + smaller diameter rims to allow you to have more sidewall (rather than less).

semi slicks are not better for the street they are shit

noisy pick every little stone pebble etc up and fling em into your undertray paint etc

and if it rains well good luck

Someone once described em to me on here as sounding like tractor tyres and its quite true

(I drive my car with semis to the local circuit)

Stiff as sidewalls no good for drag at all, great for circuit no good for anything else

Run street tyres for street and get some drag radials on another pair of rims for the drags

and if ya have not got a cage sell the used drag tyres n rims once ya crack 11's

i run the 595rs as a hybrid tyre and it performs well two seasons on the skidpans at ahg with driving all the way up from mandurah and back and a little weekend use

bang for your buck hybrid two thumbsup but if your serious MTs for drags and toyos or bridgestone for track

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...