Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here's what I did over Christmas

I bought a 40mm triple core radiator from Just Jap Cooling-pro Skyline ECR33 (CPRO40mmRAD-ECR33) $329.oo. They have a 60mm as well but I was advised against it as it was suited more for a dedicated track car and it would have to go in without the shroud in place. I also bought a 7inch thermo fan for the auto cooler (Thermofan-7inch) $50.oo.With freight to the door it was $429.oo. Now when I go up the range the water temp is about 30deg lower the engine oil is about 15deg lower and the auto is about 20deg cooler. Temps were done using one of those laser heat guns tested before and after the upgrade.

Best money I have spent in a while. I will just have to see what winter brings and I will cross that bridge when I get there.

post-25786-1263189647_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Mine started to heat up especially with A/C turned on or on dyno.

Ebay alum. asi performance 52mm $199 delivered!

Sits at 84-85'c with A/C on, boosting and Qld summer.

### p.s. guage didn't move from 1/2 even at 99'c!!! ###

Edited by RED513

i got a new clutch assembly for the fan and that will be going in this weekend, the car has been staying cool while driving but i haven't had it stationary and idling yet which is when it heats up, fingers crossed the clutch assembly will get me out of trouble.

I will keep you updated

Problem solved guys, it was my clutch assembly for the fan, put on a new one, went for a drive and idled it with air con on and never went past half way. Many thanks for opinions and help, appreciate it.

  • 3 weeks later...
Here's what I did over Christmas

I bought a 40mm triple core radiator from Just Jap Cooling-pro Skyline ECR33 (CPRO40mmRAD-ECR33) $329.oo. They have a 60mm as well but I was advised against it as it was suited more for a dedicated track car and it would have to go in without the shroud in place. I also bought a 7inch thermo fan for the auto cooler (Thermofan-7inch) $50.oo.With freight to the door it was $429.oo. Now when I go up the range the water temp is about 30deg lower the engine oil is about 15deg lower and the auto is about 20deg cooler. Temps were done using one of those laser heat guns tested before and after the upgrade.

Best money I have spent in a while. I will just have to see what winter brings and I will cross that bridge when I get there.

post-25786-1263189647_thumb.jpg

Nice... please tell me where I can find an alloy radiator with the auto trans heat exchanger in the bottom!!

I allways wonder how people with Auto stags go upgrading their radiators....

Half the reason of the bottom tank for the trans auto fluid is to heat it up when the cars cold to get it to running temps. In the winter months with only a transcooler it shall be interesting.

Stags only lock up the transfer and go into overdrive once the trans oil temp reaches a certain temp so yeah it will be interesting.

Also touch wood but im in SA and have had some very hot 40+ degree days and sitting in start stop traffic with aircon cranking and my needle never moves. sits prob 1/5th below half all the time. Stock radiator with a FMIC and PWR V8 trans cooler.

I allways wonder how people with Auto stags go upgrading their radiators....

Half the reason of the bottom tank for the trans auto fluid is to heat it up when the cars cold to get it to running temps. In the winter months with only a transcooler it shall be interesting.

Stags only lock up the transfer and go into overdrive once the trans oil temp reaches a certain temp so yeah it will be interesting.

Also touch wood but im in SA and have had some very hot 40+ degree days and sitting in start stop traffic with aircon cranking and my needle never moves. sits prob 1/5th below half all the time. Stock radiator with a FMIC and PWR V8 trans cooler.

you're not looking at your stock water temp gauge are you? those bastards lie... i think it was QWK32 who was telling me that there's 2 temp sensors in the stag, one for the ecu and the other for the standard water gauge. an aftermarket sensor + gauge will tell you much more than the standard gauge will.

I just had my Stageas top tank replaced and radiator flushed. As it had a tiny leak.

Quoted $300 drive in drive out, done under warranty :laugh:

Cool... I have heard under $200 for top tank replace; I don't know if this includes a core clean or not (a 'flush' could mean they just let the coolant out and replace it... however that does mean another $50+ for new (decent) coolant) or whether it means I have to take the radiator to them. I assume I do.

But the standard core is only 16mm thick FFS. I don't want to spend at least half the cost of an alloy radiator on an old core, to end up with stupid plastic end tanks again, and a 16mm thick radiator which is only going to fail again in 6 months.

Trouble is I've been having a hell of a time finding any kind of aftermarket radiator which is thicker than 16mm and has the auto trans cooler/warmer built into the bottom, for under $1,000. So I don't know what to do.

Cool... I have heard under $200 for top tank replace; I don't know if this includes a core clean or not (a 'flush' could mean they just let the coolant out and replace it... however that does mean another $50+ for new (decent) coolant) or whether it means I have to take the radiator to them. I assume I do.

But the standard core is only 16mm thick FFS. I don't want to spend at least half the cost of an alloy radiator on an old core, to end up with stupid plastic end tanks again, and a 16mm thick radiator which is only going to fail again in 6 months.

Trouble is I've been having a hell of a time finding any kind of aftermarket radiator which is thicker than 16mm and has the auto trans cooler/warmer built into the bottom, for under $1,000. So I don't know what to do.

i was quoted $120 for new top o ring and flush, $180 for new top tank and flush and o ring

and flush was geting the core rodded = definitely removing the shit in there

no worries, just give them a call, probs best to tell them its an auto skyline is prob the easiest

also, that price was for me removing the rad myself and not including the coolant i'll need later

i went for a 40mm cooling pro one but i've got a manual

you could get an r31 one cheap and they are thicker and come in auto but have a different top mount but you could fab something

For interest I was quoted $190 if I dropped the radiator off, and they cleaned it out and new top tank.

I would have prefered an alloy one, but cheap alloy auto tanks are hard to find and this was covered by warranty anyway.

Interesting thanks Brendan. I'll try to get a hold of a whole radiator tomorrow as now with mine out the core looks stuffed.

On a side note... doesn't it suck how much coolant is lost when you open the cooling system (and you can't be bothered putting it on stands and collecting it with a bunch of clean containers the right size that you don't have, and re-using it... I never can bring myself to reuse coolant... looks so nasty)

the 31 rad could prob be made to fit but i'm not sure if the bottom has pegs, the dimensions of the core are fine and the hose exits are in the same place

maybe get a manual rad and an oil cooler and mount the cooler behind the rad = hot air onto it which will stabilise the temps a bit quicker

  • 3 months later...

I am having the same old over heating issues on my S1 stag as well. I am booked in for a radiator clean. I also want to replace the clutch fan. I had one on order at super cheap but they called today and said they cant get them in.

so, does anyone know where i can buy a new clutch fan assembly?? I have also tried burson's and auto pro on the coast.

Cheers

Adam

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...