Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all time to part with my much beloved rims which i purchased new and have taken the greatest care of to maintain perfect condition. Rims are the Wedsports SA70 model size 18x10.5 +18, perfect fitment for GTR's and newer EVO's (as ive been told by an Evo 10 owner), but will fit any other car as well as long as you are game. two rims have 80% tread Bridgestine RE050A 255/35/18 and other two have 80% Michellin Pilotsports 255/35/18, all purchased new (was very painful on the wallet). all tires are run flat as well. only problem with the wheels is one wheel has slight rash on outer lip due to gay sydney pot holes which left a slight rash approx 3cm, barely noticeable, the rest are perfect!

located in sydney (marrickville) contact via PM is best.

cheers

Trong

SA70-1-1.jpg

SNC00055.jpg

SA70-3.jpg

price: $3000

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300866-weds-sa70-18x105-18/
Share on other sites

PM's replied. yea they fit on the GTST fine with plenty of clearance. the 2nd and 3rd pics on post #3 shows fitment on front and rear on my car

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

For anyone doubting these wheels wil definately clear AP Racing 6 pots and evo x brembo combinations let alone 33 gtr brembos...(which are smaller than Evo & Sti Brembos)

Will be easy fit in R33/R34 GTR guards.

R32 GTR will need a light lip roll.

the GTSt's and Silvia series only if your game enough and have supporting suspension mods (camber) and correct stretched tyre combo, raised like a 4wd or guard work for front and rear clearances

free bump dom as these are some craaaazzzzzzyyyyyy wheels you got there...

Edited by krayzie32

cheers for the clarification :devil: the wheels will easily clear any skyline brake combo with ease and will sit very nicely on Evo's as well. on my car, only a lip roll and a slight flare was done to have them sit the way they do, but the new rims are now on which renders the work useless as i need to bolt on 50mm flares lol in all honesty, just throw me a decent offer as these need to be sold to clear up some debts

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...