Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Do any race cars run stock airboxes?

Plenty,

Including some of the hotter factory specials like the Nismo versions of the GTR of various flavours Z tune , R tune etc..

The mines R34GTR has stock airbox/ BOV, a lazy 600+ HP and notorious response.

Someone can try and tell people it doesn't sound good but, they will be seen as being faggy for saying so.

Why pay money for Pods when they are a step backwards in power on a GTR without a cold air box and feed?

Even with a CAI forking out over $500 to set it up nets you at best 2hp or so. It's what you call a good waste of money. $500 is better spent on something else.

Plenty,

Including some of the hotter factory specials like the Nismo versions of the GTR of various flavours Z tune , R tune etc..

The mines R34GTR has stock airbox/ BOV, a lazy 600+ HP and notorious response.

Someone can try and tell people it doesn't sound good but, they will be seen as being faggy for saying so.

Why pay money for Pods when they are a step backwards in power on a GTR without a cold air box and feed?

Even with a CAI forking out over $500 to set it up nets you at best 2hp or so. It's what you call a good waste of money. $500 is better spent on something else.

I found this pixxor of an Mines R34 GTR replica.

Doesn't look stock to me.

2853_4lo.jpg

Do any race cars run stock airboxes?

I believe sav_man's 33 N1 which he ran Targa with is the stockest I've seen with just exhaust system done and ecu. Everything else is stock. Pushing more than 300rwkw with more than 95% duty on injectors. So yes it can be done but it all depends on what your objective is. For his, I think he just wanna keep the whole N1 version of the car as much as possible.

Councillor: Do what everyone suggested. My pick for exhaust would be Kakimoto Regu 06&R because of the very distinctive RB brumble they have (yes I've heard a few exhaust and by far, the Kaki's the most distinctive) and the "titanium" looking tip (if I hadnt got my Trust TI-R, I would be getting this). But if you prefer quieter ones, get the HKS Slient. The HKS one will be loud or sound good on high rev but on idle, its pretty docile.

Ultimately if you're not after high power, getting an ecu after the exhaust's been done is required. You will be amazed by how much difference a tune can do. Not so sure about the oil cooler though (its a good to have for street car imo, not a must have). If you need it, get it. If not, dont bother. I wouldnt have a clue because mine came with the factory oil cooler.

I'll say this, DO NOT get dumps for your GTR unless you're doing turbos too. The labour cost is ridicules if you're just doing dumps. And if you're not running really high power, its probably bugga all difference.

I believe sav_man's 33 N1 which he ran Targa with is the stockest I've seen with just exhaust system done and ecu. Everything else is stock. Pushing more than 300rwkw with more than 95% duty on injectors. So yes it can be done but it all depends on what your objective is. For his, I think he just wanna keep the whole N1 version of the car as much as possible.

Targa rules say the intake system (including Injectors) must remain standard!. Also the car must run on a standard ECU, in other words you can change your ECU so long as when the scruitineers plug in the original ECU the car must run.

Ash

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...-s-t301285.html

Looks like a good buy for 500bucks. Maybe look at that before sourcing something new.

Ash: Thanks for the info but yea, sav_man's N1's running very well for a stock car.

I found this pixxor of an Mines R34 GTR replica.

Doesn't look stock to me.

2853_4lo.jpg

That particular car has plenty of 'similar performance mods' but, is actually a 'replica' meaning it's not built by mines. It has plenty of extra modified bits that aren't the same as the mines car.Although quick, It's slower than the mines car.

have a look at the vid link I posted and you will see the stock airbox. they even point at it for you.

There have been some back to back tests on the stock air box that prove it's not a power restriction.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...-s-t301285.html

Looks like a good buy for 500bucks. Maybe look at that before sourcing something new.

Ash: Thanks for the info but yea, sav_man's N1's running very well for a stock car.

They are a good thing from factory. I guess they have been homiligated for motoracing so the factory item must be good.

Ash

Yes thats what I heard. Thats why my advice to TS is not to do that many mods unless he's got plans for really higher power. Personally I feel after tuning, the car already is very quick and enjoyable.

Some good advice from a GTR owner.

On GTR's the 'bolt on boy' approach can see your car go slower and be less enjoyable to drive. Planning out what you want to improve carefully will see you get the best results. Always consider carefully the 'why' before handing over of cash. And it does take some time to filter out the good advice from the ordinary on these forums. It's worth it though. :D

Some good advice from a GTR owner.

On GTR's the 'bolt on boy' approach can see your car go slower and be less enjoyable to drive. Planning out what you want to improve carefully will see you get the best results. Always consider carefully the 'why' before handing over of cash. And it does take some time to filter out the good advice from the ordinary on these forums. It's worth it though. :D

Yea... work out whats a MUST have and what are the GOOD TO HAVE items. Most of the time I see people spending heaps on good to have items and its really make the car a money pit when you add everything together. Its like Macca's upsize, 1 dollar more you get more but ask yourself, can you finish it?

black rims on silver body makes me f....ckn yawn = boring as hell

Sound like a boost comment. If the owner likes it, I dont see a problem with it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...