Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I understand the need for the heat exchanger but the coolant in the radiator won't flow until the thermostat opens regardless of the size of the radiator. Here in QLD it can get to zero in winter and rise to over forty in summer. In winter I can see the need for the heat exchanger in the radiator so the plan after new year is to go to the local wreckers and pick up an old copper radiator with the auto line in it and cut it open to see what it looks like (straight pipe or fined). If it is a straight pipe I will buy an aluminum radiator and have it modified then I should have the best of both worlds (unless someone knows where I can get one ready maid)

After paying ($2,800) to have my auto overhauled I want to treat it right.

Cheers

Phil

Regardless of how cold it is the water will still heat up before the atf. In NZ I am able to buy a generic thicker radiator core with the auto connections and which fits the Stagea through Natrad. I would think they would be available in Aus and would be half the price of getting one custom made. Maybe just ask your local radiator shop to check out the availability of a suitable thicker replacement?

I have rung Natrad here in QLD Toowoomba and they told me that they did not have a listing for the stagea. If you have part # I will give them another go.

Sorry to go off topic (Trans cooler to radiator)

Thanks

Phil

I have rung Natrad here in QLD Toowoomba and they told me that they did not have a listing for the stagea. If you have part # I will give them another go.

Sorry to go off topic (Trans cooler to radiator)

Thanks

Phil

Its not a Stagea radiator - they just have a catalogue and find a picture of a radiator the right size and with the pipes in the right place. I'll go down to my local on Tuesday and see if I can get a reference.
Regardless of how cold it is the water will still heat up before the atf. In NZ I am able to buy a generic thicker radiator core with the auto connections and which fits the Stagea through Natrad. I would think they would be available in Aus and would be half the price of getting one custom made. Maybe just ask your local radiator shop to check out the availability of a suitable thicker replacement?

yup. koyo brand through natrad - awesome upgrade !

want one for my track car now

I have rung Natrad here in QLD Toowoomba and they told me that they did not have a listing for the stagea. If you have part # I will give them another go.

Sorry to go off topic (Trans cooler to radiator)

Thanks

Phil

get the quote to suit r33 auto skyline

DaveB

The way your trans cooler was mounted with the hose fittings at the bottom will trap the air at the top of the cooler and not allow the oil to pass through all of the cooler fins. This is why the standard cooler is mounted with one fitting at the top and one at the bottom. It allows the air to bleed out of the cooler.

I would suggest putting the hose fittings at the top.

This is true; I assume they pressure-bled the system or something. Unfortunately it's no small feat to turn the cooler upside-down; I'll ask the transmission place about it next time I see them, thanks.

DaveB

DaveB

The way your trans cooler was mounted with the hose fittings at the bottom will trap the air at the top of the cooler and not allow the oil to pass through all of the cooler fins. This is why the standard cooler is mounted with one fitting at the top and one at the bottom. It allows the air to bleed out of the cooler.

I would suggest putting the hose fittings at the top.

Edited by DaveB

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...