Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

fixed it guys.

i was thinking why it would go lean and then rich right after and i thought... MAP SENSOR may have been jumping around the fuel map in a shit way

so i took my hoses off one at a time to look for a leak and i found a shitty little one RIGHT on a clamp.

why is it that my car never has an obvious fix??

thanks guys.

it started doing it again. i found another leak in my ebay special throttle body, its a tiny leak which is starting to do my head in but i still doubt its causing the problem, but im going to try get a greddy throttle body adapter and check my stock TB to see if that fixes the problem.

has anyone got any suggestions? keep in mind the car runs a MAP sensor and a VIPEC ecu.

so far ive played with the injector dead times (made the entire map rich), and accel map which didnt do anything.

im pretty certain its the air leak in the throttle body thats causing it, im waiting on an adaptor to arrive so i can put the stocky one back on.

i think its a case of the map sensor not moving on the fuel map quick enough which is causing it to run lean off take off. ill report back when the adaptor comes.

its been running perfect up until 2 weeks or so after the plenum/injector install. i think an air leak would effect it if a considerable amount of air is passing through the TB. i hooked up my compressor to the cooler piping and it was hissing enough for me to pick where it was coming from straight away.

That sounds EXACTLY like my car does when the fuel and ignition were not tuned right, and the acceleration enrichment was not setup right.

The accel enrichment is an absolute bitch to get nice and sweet on most cars with big injectors, do able, but takes time for those who haven't done it before.

I had the same issue with a freshly painted Greddy copy manifold, scraped back the paint at the grounding point, and fixed it.

Click on tabs "Analogue Inputs" and "Analogue Status". Make sure it isn't displaying a voltage problem with the TPS. If an error exists, it should show up in the status tab as a red bar. Inputs should also show limited range rather than the typical 0.5 - 4.5 volt range between 0 - 100%.

If you have a dicky system ground on the inlet manifold, TPS voltage won't run through the correct range and you will get all sorts of horrible lean running on accel. ie. Unless TPS output is correct, no amount of changing accel enrichment will alter what actually happens when you attempt to accelerate the engine speed.

Otherwise you should setup a data plot and observe what the AFR actually does on accel. Then you might make an informed judgement about what to look at next.

earth is fine, i thought it might have been at first but i hooked it up directly do a ground point on the chassis and it didnt change anything.

with the ebay throttle body the TPS has to run in reverse to the standard ecu, so for eg. if the standard throttle had 0.1v being closed and 5v being open, the ebay throttle body only works with the 5v as being closed and 0.1v being open.... its the only way it would work but the ecu calibrates whatever voltages are open and closed and sets it as 0-100% throttle position.

ive got it down to a few things;

1. throttle body leak - adapter is coming some time this week so ill be able to rule it out. this will also make the voltages back to normal settings.

2. acceleration enrichment - does anyone know a way i can check this? do the %'s go up or down with bigger injectors?

3. fuel pump/filter - i took the pump out yesterday and checked for anything that could cause it to fail but i didnt see anything out of the ordinary. if the above 2 dont work i'll replace it with a new one.

well i just threw in my standard injectors and reverted back to the old map and it made NO change. i also checked the fuel filter and it wasn't blocked at all.

now ive got to wait for my throttle adapter to come, then if that doesnt work ill grab a fuel pump.

ohhh how i absolutely love diagnostics :blink:

Edited by SECURITY

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nice one, I'd argue that the white S1 RS260 is certainly the best looking of the Stageas. And yes, fully agree on the forum situation. It's a bit of a shame, but at least SAU is a good place to be. I found the facebook groups to give me FOMO because people were trying to one-up each other and show off in some way. Feels much more natural here. There are people with seriously nice builds, but I can appreciate it rather than it making me question my life choices. Might be that people are more open with sharing how much work/money/suffering it takes to actually get there. 
    • Evening, wanted to pop in and finally register to say hi to everyone here on SAU!   It's been a while since I've been active on a forum, but back in the day I used to be relatively active on ClubLexus and other hobby-related forums. I'm glad to see SAU is still around, since with the advent of Facebook and Discord it seems forums aren't what they once were. As a recent new owner of an S1 260RS Stagea, I've found so many older guides and helpful tips from SAU that I figured I needed to join and say a grave thank you. My recent acquisition has only become legal in the US for the past year, and knowing that similar car enthusiasts from across the pond have already figured out the kinks and tricks to get these 25+ year old cars running well. I look forward to diving into more of the SAU forums as well as hopefully contribute some info myself for future posterity.   As a pic tax, here is one of the few good photos I have of my Stagea. I hope to get way more in the future!    
    • Is this where I say "Hey man my airbox cost me horsepower in my Naturally Aspirated Engine"? (I know you need them for legality in NSW)
    • 1.5mm alloy folded up, it will need a tweek, as the angled bend only got to around 45° as that was the max that the break press would get with the other bends, and I needed a fair bit more, but and the alloy is easy to bend too my will by hand once I trim the lower section out I'll Dremel out and form the angle and mounting point on the lower section when time permits  As for the lid, I'm looking at going a "cap", instead of a flat lid to hide the fixtures a bit
×
×
  • Create New...